Triumph Vitesse mk2 clutch pedal repair

[Puglet1]

There is a clevis pin which fits between the clutch pedal and the clutch master cylinder on my 1971 Triumph Vitesse.
I have replaced the worn clevis pin but there is still free play between it and the pedal.
I am thinking of drilling out the pedal eye and sleeving it with a bush.
Is a phosphor bronze bush suitable?

 

[Melvyn Best]

There is a clevis pin which fits between the clutch pedal and the clutch master cylinder on my 1971 Triumph Vitesse.
I have replaced the worn clevis pin but there is still free play between it and the pedal.
I am thinking of drilling out the pedal eye and sleeving it with a bush.
Is a phosphor bronze bush suitable?

A lot of cars use a plastic bush so I would have thought PB would be fine. Worst comes to the worst the hole could be welded up and re drilled if the bush idea doesn’t work?

 

[dave h 2]

There is a clevis pin which fits between the clutch pedal and the clutch master cylinder on my 1971 Triumph Vitesse.
I have replaced the worn clevis pin but there is still free play between it and the pedal.
I am thinking of drilling out the pedal eye and sleeving it with a bush.
Is a phosphor bronze bush suitable?

You suffering from a lack of clutch dis-engagement?

 

[Puglet1]

Dave h 2. I replaced the master cylinder due to leakage.
When I removed the clevis pin I could see it was badly worn so replaced it which improved the pedal height slightly.
That lead me to try the new clevis pin into the pedal eye which showed how badly worn it is.
Gear selection is fine but the pedal is lower than I’d normally expect so I thought
I’d get the clearances back to standard spec.
Many thanks.
Pete.

 

[Puglet1]

Thanks Melvyn Best.
That gives me a little more confidence in using PB.

 

[Dilkris]

If you can easily remove the clutch pedal assembly I would simply drill out the elongated clevis pin hole - and obviously the holes in the fork of the master cylinder actuating arm the same - and fit a larger diameter clevis pin.

 

[dave h 2]

Dave h 2. I replaced the master cylinder due to leakage.
When I removed the clevis pin I could see it was badly worn so replaced it which improved the pedal height slightly.
That lead me to try the new clevis pin into the pedal eye which showed how badly worn it is.
Gear selection is fine but the pedal is lower than I’d normally expect so I thought
I’d get the clearances back to standard spec.
Many thanks.
Pete.

It's just that there was a dodge with Triumph 6 clutches back then involving extending the slave rod or doubling the slave pistons to increase travel when the crank thrusts went bad. Like vw beetles the moving crank pulley gives the game away. If you ever do the clutch get the crank spigot bush at the same time.

 

[Morris]

Worth checking this
The pivot points can wear badly on these. The design is rubbish. There is a bush on the pivot and a pin goes through the pedal and bushed pivot. The trouble is that the pin is not locked to the pedal in any way so the pin doesn't move in the bush, it just wears the pedal holes.
Wifey's Pop uses them, I made new pins that locked to the pedal so that the bus does it's job.

 

[Melvyn Best]

It's just that there was a dodge with Triumph 6 clutches back then involving extending the slave rod or doubling the slave pistons to increase travel when the crank thrusts went bad. Like vw beetles the moving crank pulley gives the game away. If you ever do the clutch get the crank spigot bush at the same time.

As an apprentice I had a split screen VW camper that had excessive crank end float which I thought I would rectify by fitting additional shims between the flywheel and rear main bearing. BIG mistake , it crushed the bearing and I was unable to turn the crank. Good thing it was my own vehicle. Classic Mini suffered from wear on the end of the clutch actuating arm , a bodge that worked was either to heat the arm and bend it or to fit a female brake pipe nut over the end of the slave ( are we still able to say that?) cylinder push rod to extend it