transmission pan screws

[RaceDiagnostics]

Got 21 of them to come out but none of them want to, the first 6 are all stripped out now and the torx bit isn't happy.

Plan B is the weld on a nut to all the screws but the transmission body is aluminium, will there be unforeseen issues with the heat from the screw damaging/melting the aly hole its screwed into?

 

[armalites]

T27 seems to be one of those sizes where the fixings are too tight for the tool, I goosed one in exactly the same way. At least it's Teng and they should replace it. Maybe try getting hold of a T27 impact bit? Snap On had a thing called a Vibro-shock on special recently, I bought one and I reckon it could be ideal for that job. Basically it mounts in an air hammer, you fit a socket/bit on the end. It has a handle so you turn as you vibrate the fixing.

 

[Agroshield]

Plan B is the weld on a nut to all the screws but the transmission body is aluminium, will there be unforeseen issues with the heat from the screw damaging/melting the ally hole its screwed into?

There's a good chance the screws have some sort of thread retainer (loctite) on them. In that case heat is your friend. If there are any undamaged ones left, heat them up red hot, let them cool and try again with a new torx bit.

The aluminium case is relatively massive and will dissipate any welding heat so no problem. Watch some of Jody's videos: he often uses aluminium blocks to aid part positioning of to provide a back shield for the gas. They never melt. Best check it is not aluminum though as this could lead to problems.

 

[Chris Stevens]

You need a gas torch with accurate pencil flame, aerosol can of Plus Gas, torx bit, impact driver to fit torx bit. Heat the fasteners with torch, till they are hot as you can get them, give them a squirt of Plus Gas and then use impact driver and torx bit to remove them. A bit involved, but a lot less hassle than messing around with drills or easy outs (lol).

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Before heat etc, try this.

Put the bit into the hole on a short extension. Give it a short sharp blow with a hammer. It will seat the bit.

Then nip it up tight a bit. I find that will crack 90% of the fittings.

The worse ones I ever had to remove was on a Honda, I am sure the used a whole bottle per fixings/

Not a Happy Vark.

 

[Chris Stevens]

Before heat etc, try this.

Put the bit into the hole on a short extension. Give it a short sharp blow with a hammer. It will seat the bit.

Then nip it up tight a bit. I find that will crack 90% of the fittings.

The worse ones I ever had to remove was on a Honda, I am sure the used a whole bottle per fixings/

Not a Happy Vark.

Wont remove fittings with thread locking agent...........

 

[8ob]

Got 21 of them to come out but none of them want to, the first 6 are all stripped out now and the torx bit isn't happy.

Plan B is the weld on a nut to all the screws but the transmission body is aluminium, will there be unforeseen issues with the heat from the screw damaging/melting the aly hole its screwed into?

Plan B is is the best way, Torx/allen/spline and thread lock are satans work, the feed rollers on our chippers always prove impossible to remove. I don't even try any more I just weld the nuts on and save the tools from an imminent hiding.

 

[Morris]

I have removed seized in screws (with no heads) in SU carbs by Tig welding a "blob" onto the stub. Works a treat, just grip with mole grips and ease it out.

 

[Johnseat]

Just go buy a decent impact T27 bit and use an impact driver.
They'll shift after a couple of cracks.
If it's a steel bolt running through an ally housing into an ally thread then adding heat usually worsens the threads and they generally pull out, that's my experience anyway. Most off the components on trucks are made of ally and use steel bolts, they always seize in.

 

[Chris Stevens]

The reason for use of heat is to soften locking agent, which is often used on fastenings used on transmissions. Impact driver is a good idea, and especially useful on small diameter torx fasteners, which will come out using impact driver almost always, if they are not loctited or seized with corrosion, where heat will help.

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

Using a blow torch is a bit problematic as its a plastic sump, welding will be bad enough. A nip up first is a good idea and should be possible as there should be a bit of give in the sump. Don't think there is any thread lock on the original bolts but cant say for sure.

Here is a video of someone removing the sump on a california car with no rust at all, best bit is when he is using the easy out at 9min 45 seconds.

 

[Chris Stevens]

Using a blow torch is a bit problematic as its a plastic sump, welding will be bad enough. A nip up first is a good idea and should be possible as there should be a bit of give in the sump. Don't think there is any thread lock on the original bolts but cant say for sure.

Here is a video of someone removing the sump on a california car with no rust at all, best bit is when he is using the easy out at 9min 45 seconds.

If heat is impossible and no locking agent, then a good quality impact screwdriver and torx bit should do the trick.

 

[Shox Dr]

I've been using a 18v battery screwdriver (the type that impacts), instead of a pneumatic nut runner type.
The impacts are a difference frequency, closer together (for want of a better description). So puts less twisting action on the smaller dia threads.

 

[Chris Stevens]

An impact screwdriver, thats hit with a hammer is whats needed here. Any sort of rotary tool is not likely to work on a difficult fastener.

 

[Shox Dr]

An impact screwdriver, thats hit with a hammer is whats needed here. Any sort of rotary tool is not likely to work on a difficult fastener.

They are still rotary, just crap at it. They belong in the 70s

 

[doubleboost]

Heat is your best friend
Plus gas (Oxygen plus Acetylene)

 

[Chris Stevens]

They are still rotary, just crap at it. They belong in the 70s

Hammer blows on an impact driver, which is applying torque to fastener at same time, might not be as swish as a £300 Snap On battery tool, but an awful lot more effective at removing difficult fasteners!

 

[Windy Miller]

Hammer blows on an impact driver, which is applying torque to fastener at same time, might not be as swish as a £300 Snap On battery tool, but an awful lot more effective at removing difficult fasteners!

My trusty old hammer operated impact driver has got me out of a hole many occasions. Great bit of kit in my book!

 

[doubleboost]

My trusty old hammer operated impact driver has got me out of a hole many occasions. Great bit of kit in my book!

I use mine for brake disc screws every day

 

[Chris Stevens]

My trusty old hammer operated impact driver has got me out of a hole many occasions. Great bit of kit in my book!

Me too.............weird how lots of people think modern battery tools are superior to tried and trusted things like impact drivers! Had a USA made Snap On impact for about 30 years, and not much it wont undo...................