Trailer

[feen]

Getting the ball rolling on a trailer I've been collecting parts for. Over the last year.

Let's assume it's all new and I'll send it for an IVA when done.

It's a flat bed, wheels under, 2500x1500 and 2000kg capacity.

I'm aiming for 300kg for the basic trailer, sides and tailgate extra.

So far all the hardware is 200kg.

Roughed up an idea last night to try and work out some weights.

50x50 box perimeter
50x25 box trellis
30x30 box cross members
70x50 box draw bar.

At 3mm wall thickness, it's around 115kg.

At 2.5mm wall thickness, it's around 100kg.

As a first draught, am I miles off the mark?

I'd welcome any advice, however brutal.

All the best

JF

Why can't I upload picture from my phone?

 

[CompoSimmonite]

What are you going to use for the top surface as I can't see that mentioned. My 8'x4' trailer has 3/4" exterior ply they weighs quite a bit itself.

Paul h

 

[feen]

30kg of buffalo board is included in the hardware.

It's not going to be as robust as an IW trailer, but hopefully lighter.

I've looked at buying new, but not one company does a trailer with all the bits I'm after.

I also need another project.

Thanks

JF.

 

[feen]

http://i1265.photobucket.com/albums/jj501/feen25/3C85C2F1-F261-4E2B-BEE0-A22712826CF4-5138-00000629FFAA7008.jpg

 

[feen]

At last!

 

[CompoSimmonite]

Buffalo board is good choice. I've got a sheet to replace the ply on my trailer but it will need extra support though as I'm going for thinner material. Looking at your drawing I think you might need it too as I assume 30kg for a 2500 x 1500 area means it's also thin section (it's about 32Kg for a 8ft by 4ft of 18mm ordinary ply) and I think 4 (625 x 1500) areas are too large without if you intend carrying 2000kg.

Paul H

 

[feen]

Sherlock,

You are indeed correct, 3050x1500x12mm is what I've got!

And your observations match my current dilemma.

I am however loathed to keep chucking steel at it. I will mull it over for a couple of days and come up with something.

If I could get the chassis legs up to the underside of the deck, with the cross members fitted between the rails and perimeter it would help.

If its ever fully loaded, that's 1700kg spread over the whole area. Most of the time it will be two quads which sit above the rails anyway.

I hear what you're saying and I'm on it ;-)

Cheers

JF.

P.s ther has since been gussets added to stress points where the draw bar bends as meets the rails.

350kg tops including lights.

 

[armalites]

The problem with building these things you are always inclined to over engineer to make sure it's right.

That normally results in extra weight.

I've been through this dilema, always wanted to build a trailer just for the fun of it.

The reality was buying the proper axles and running gear even direct from the manufacturer was going to cost £1400. It would still always be a homemade trailer. Getting it galvanised will adds to it's value in the future.

I ended up buying a Ifor Williams and I know if I look after it it will lose hardly any money so in the the long run will be a better bet.

Still want to build one though

 

[feen]

Basically I want fold down head board and tailgate with removable corner posts. I also want the tailgate and headboard supported, level with the deck to extend the bed length.

Most manufacturers do one or the other but NONE do all.

It will be galvanised, oh more weight.

I bought brand new Alko axles for £100 each :-)

It's not really about the budget.

I almost bought IW Eurolight but it's got a fixed headboard.

JF

 

[normspanners]

I used electrians unistrut for the cross braces on my trailer, galved, light and strong
easy to drill and with it being channel it does not fill with water/condensation you can screw straight into it with tec screws etc, you can use zebadee nuts to hold cables inside the channels etc

 

[bod]

I now you're not particularly interested but I used to be a galvanizer, hot dip will add about 3% weight depending on the silicon content of the steel among other things. Nasty stuff, still can't stand it.
A guy called up one day asking us to galv his Land Rover, we explained it'd go in to molten zinc and he helpfully suggested he'd take the wheels off and empty the petrol tank...

 

[madkayaker]

I used electrians unistrut for the cross braces on my trailer, galved, light and strong
easy to drill and with it being channel it does not fill with water/condensation you can screw straight into it with tec screws etc, you can use zebadee nuts to hold cables inside the channels etc

Fantastic stuff use lots my self for all kind of things. The welded double channel stuff is very strong

 

[feen]

I now you're not particularly interested but I used to be a galvanizer, hot dip will add about 3% weight depending on the silicon content of the steel among other things. Nasty stuff, still can't stand it.
A guy called up one day asking us to galv his Land Rover, we explained it'd go in to molten zinc and he helpfully suggested he'd take the wheels off and empty the petrol tank...

Thank you, that is actually good to know. If I had to guess I'd say more than 3%!!

Cheers

JF

 

[Magic Rat]

Pillar wedge used to recommend adding 5-8% onto the weight when calculating a quote.

I have built a few trailers in the past. I can see the attraction, as Feen says there is not much to choose inbetween the garden centre range like daxara and the industrial Ifor Williams types.

The one I use regular is one I built myself because I only had a small car at the time and wanted something more robust than the sheet metal on wheel barrow wheels but unbraked. It cost about the same as I could buy an Ifor Williams p60 for almost new. If I added up the hours I spent on it and what they were worth I would cry.

I used get everyone complimenting me on it and asking if I could build one for them, when I told them what it cost me and I would have to put my time on it as well they soon cooled off.

You will never be able to build one for what you can buy one. You will never get the undergear for the same cost as a manufacturer, or pay the same galv rates they get. You will get a lot of satisfaction from having built your own the way you want it ,and may also learn a thing or two a long the way though.

 

[CompoSimmonite]

I have two trailers. A tiny Erde 102 and a folding (Harbor Freight type) 8' x 4'. Over the years I've build numerous trailers but no way could I have made them for less than I paid for ready made. The Erde is actually quite useful as light enough to be towed with my Smart car (I've got one of the rare, - read that as expensive, legal towbars). The 8'x4 is great as folds up into a small footprint when not needed yet still has a payload of 750kg. All sorts of thing have been carried on it and now due for refurbishment due to the Chinese paint starting to flake so intend painting with Zinga. Mate has a Daxara about 7' x 5' and that is a great hauler. I've used it for building rubbish (over a ton), motorbikes, quads, furniture and even a microcar !
Building your own trailer is fun but rarely cost effective and far cheaper to adapt something already made. For example a cheap horsebox with body removed makes a fantastic flatbed that will take 2 tons - two big horses plus body must weigh at least that. I bought a 10' x 5' Tow-a-Van with duff brakes, tyres, lights and hole in roof for £200. Accepted it cost me around £300 in repairs but when I'd finished I had a brilliant trailer for £500.

Paul H

 

[feen]

Axle position on a horse box isn't ideal for a general trailer. Granted, depends how you load it.

Jf