Trailer

[Ducati]

I was probably going to use a bowden cable for the mech brake anyway, as they seem more sensible to me.

The Sankey brakes use a square pyramid shaped adjuster, which you wind in and out to adjust them.

rtbcomp, the later drums also have a snail adjuster, right up until discs were fitted.

I like the idea of the volvo style adjustments though, especially as coil sprung landy hand brakes use a cable operated expander, so this could be the way to go...

You could always investigate using two transmission brake expander units, one each side, as the means of operating the parking brake, in place of the cone adjusters, then using a bowden cable with adjuster, as mentioned by RTB, to act as your handbrake cable and brake adjustment, this wouldn't be feasible on a snail adjuster back plate though.

Another option would be to use a back plate off such as a transit, modifying it to bolt up to the axle flange shouldn't present a problem, the only head scratching would be getting a back plate to suit the drum dimensions.

 

[octo0072000]

handbrake

why not use the landy transmisson brake and bracket it weld it on to the axle like the dana i think 60 set ups you only need to find a longer hand brake cable then

 

[boydy1989]

2 more good ideas, ducati, could I not modify the current back plates and fit the expanders in place of the snail adjuster? It was a while since i took a landy drum off (I have discs on mine now ) I may need to get some different shoes though.

all good solutions to a problem i hadn't quite worked out

 

[Ducati]

2 more good ideas, ducati, could I not modify the current back plates and fit the expanders in place of the snail adjuster? It was a while since i took a landy drum off (I have discs on mine now ) I may need to get some different shoes though.

all good solutions to a problem i hadn't quite worked out

No you can't fit the expanders in place of the snail adjusters, the snail adjusters operate on the web of the shoes whereas the expanders operate on the pivot point of the shoes ( opposite the cylinder ).

You could possibly fit the expanders to any back plate with a bit of cut and shutting, and either retain the snail, which will still adjust the shoes or remove it.

Best is to get an adjuster, or a good photo of one, then pop the drum off and have a head scratching session to see if it can be fitted, whilst ordering a brew from the nice young lady in the photo

There are a few variations with brakes depending on LWB, SWB, Ser I, II, III, etc so best to have a peep inside.

 

[boydy1989]

he he he im already in trouble for asking for lunch...

i think this is becoming a plan, so when i move house next week and have all my stuff together again i shall have a look.

 

[madkayaker]

got round to sorting my brakes for my sankey rebuild. if you use a standard series hub and handrake activator you can make it work! file the back of the activator till the indents have gone (have lathe at work so it got faced off with that) take out the old cylinder and offer the actuator up so that its at thetop of the hole then you can drill and tap for bolts to go through the existing mounting holes (i used 6mm blind holes) the shoes will be short so work out by how much and cut a bits of bar to take up the differance and weld onto the end of the shoe. points to watch is if there is enoght clearance for the handbrake unit to extend full stroke then the plumger can rotate locking up the brakes or theguts fall out and you have no brakes! but if there is only 50-75% travel then this can't happen.

 

[madkayaker]

will try to remeber to take some pics tommorow and upload