I've been asked if I could repair the roof of a box trailer that's used as a mobile office for events, it's about 8ft by 5ft and I guess 6ft plus headroom. The roof or what is left of it is made of translucent GRP sheet about1.5mm thick secured around the edges with aluminium trim pop riveted to the steel angle trailer framework with a bead of sealant/adhesive either side of the GRP, I was thinking of a like for like repair as they have spare GRP material to hand. I need to view it again as it was only a quick visit in fading light but any suggestions as to methods, sealants and ahesives etc would be gratefully received.
- Thread starter KTMart
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BrokenBiker
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- Newport, South Wales
sikaflex, im sure we used to use it for repairs to curatinsiders after they had been in arguements with low trees or bridges
theres a 3m double sided tape that works well they use it to hold the roof on 40 ft trailers , it looks like honey and feels like chewing gum and once its on , its on . then like for like
remember to use self sealed / bulkhead rivets of course.
remember to use self sealed / bulkhead rivets of course.
From experience re-roofing a horsebox it is a pig of a job trying to get the sheet fitted.
The frame is rarely square and flexes with the trailer chassis.
You might find that the sheet you had cut to fit no longer lines up with the frame because it has twisted since you measured it.
Then you start riveting and you think it's going well until the other side no longer lines up.
Definitely don't use any one go foam tape as you will need several goes to get the sheet fitted square. Silkaflex is a good suggestion.
Set the trailer chassis on 4 axle stands at each corner to keep flexing to a minimum.
Use a ratchet strap to hold the sheet to the curved roof shape.
Number the trim strips as you take them off.
Get yourself a pneumatic pop riveter. I bought a cheap Neilsen tools one to do that job and it has popped a good few hundred rivets since.
The frame is rarely square and flexes with the trailer chassis.
You might find that the sheet you had cut to fit no longer lines up with the frame because it has twisted since you measured it.
Then you start riveting and you think it's going well until the other side no longer lines up.
Definitely don't use any one go foam tape as you will need several goes to get the sheet fitted square. Silkaflex is a good suggestion.
Set the trailer chassis on 4 axle stands at each corner to keep flexing to a minimum.
Use a ratchet strap to hold the sheet to the curved roof shape.
Number the trim strips as you take them off.
Get yourself a pneumatic pop riveter. I bought a cheap Neilsen tools one to do that job and it has popped a good few hundred rivets since.
the nice thing about the 3m tape is that you can stick it to the trailer rails , do all your lining up before you peel the top cover off the tape , then just lift the roof an inch and pull ,,, the stand at each corner is a good tip though .. a set of trestles and planks would help , or work beside a 4 poster and lift it half way for a platform , trailers are a pain if you dont have easy access and drilling and riveting off a ladder is slow.
atomant48
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Alupanel would be another option - that’s not a particularly big area you are replacing so it shouldn’t be too bad a job. As above don’t use a hand riveter. I ended up buying a Milwaukee battery one - unbelievable little tool.
And don’t forget pics …
And don’t forget pics …
Thanks for the suggestions, I like the idea of the 3M tape to give a bit of adjustability lining everthing up first, maybe the silkaflex then between the sheet and the trim pieces, I'll try and get some pics but everything is covered in logo's and advertising so I'll need to be careful!
CompoSimmonite
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- Werrington, Staffordshire Moorlands.
I bought a 10' X 5' twin wheel Tow-a-Van trailer off a friends employer cheaply due to vandals chucking concrete blocks through the translucent fibreglass roof sheet. I simply cut out a section of fibreglass roof from a Hi Top van in scrap yard and repaired the damaged roof with that. Sealant was used then pop rivets. No problem installing nor any leaks.
