Trailer Axles or suspension units

[pete3000]

Hypopathetically speaking, if I was considering a renovation project of a previously built trailer , which type of axles or units are most cost effective, in terms of weight handling and cost vs fitting to a flat bed?

I was looking to get a do-er upper and over engineer it to handle 3-3.500kg safely. So obviously needs brakes and probably a twin axle with suspension?

Looking to keep the hitch/drawbar arrangement and upgrade/strengthen the bed if needed along with some better units/axles. Has anyone any ideas or have a old project trailer I may be interested in taking on?

Some ideas I have, LR series rear axles (leafer), van or transit beam/leaf axles minus the driveshafts (so i keep the bearings/tube strength but dont need to touch the diff.

Pete

 

[madkayaker]

Land rover axle does work but arranging brakes is difficult as handbrake is on transfer box not axle. Don't forget trailers after 1980 ish need auto reverse which if difficult without proper units also hitch needs the lock part which most don't have

 

[feen]

With those weights, I think you really need to use trailer axles or units intended for the job, not whatever you can find at the scrap yard.

Good luck tho

JF

 

[octo0072000]

what you going to tow it with ??

 

[pete3000]

looking more at the auto reverse bits, the alko units look to have but I don't like the idea of the bits of rubber etc for the torsion beams, looking to tow with a 110 LR, as long as I don't go out of limits, hence the brakes.
I'd rather it be over designed than under, so set the design weight as 3 ton although it wouldn't need that for most situations, the odd kit car or freelander with the occasional range rover or disco. The alko units do look promising to keep the c.of. g low though.

Once the costs are tallied I may end up with a second hand Brian james, IW or indespension, although I don't want to end up with an expensive ringer or pikey magnet.

 

[octo0072000]

looking more at the auto reverse bits, the alko units look to have but I don't like the idea of the bits of rubber etc for the torsion beams, looking to tow with a 110 LR, as long as I don't go out of limits, hence the brakes.
I'd rather it be over designed than under, so set the design weight as 3 ton although it wouldn't need that for most situations, the odd kit car or freelander with the occasional range rover or disco. The alko units do look promising to keep the c.of. g low though.

Once the costs are tallied I may end up with a second hand Brian james, IW or indespension, although I don't want to end up with an expensive ringer or pikey magnet.

hope you took your test before 97 then whatever the trailer is plated at when you are pulled they take the gross weights of both weather you are loaded or not so 110+3.5ton not far short of 6tonwith empty 110 not sure on max train weight on a 110 now

 

[madkayaker]

My army 110 was 3t vehicle 6.5t train by the time you add the bits up its cheaper to get second hand than build

 

[CompoSimmonite]

Buy a good secondhand trailer gets my vote too as building something with a 3500kg capacity is going to need expensive components if you buy them new.
Also if any "commercial" use then Tacho might be needed
http://www.fleetnews.co.uk/fleet-ma...ph-if-you-tow-for-your-business-you-do/37588/
http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/faq/tachograph-towing-laws/
http://www.ifor-williams.fr/news/tacho/index.htm

Paul H

 

[stormin]

No way Land Rover series axles are going to get you a 3.5 tonne capacity unless you use about four of them.

If you are intending to have it heavily loaded or are buying second hand and hoping to keep the axles I would stick with a leaf sprung. More agricultural but far more durable and you can tell striaght away whether it's knackered.

I've seen too many of the indespension axles give up the ghost on ifors and similar. Wobbly suspension rubbers, knackered wheel bearings leading to scored spindles. All easily bodged to hide the turth from an unsuspecting buyer.

Watch for tyres too. The high load low profile tyres used on some modern trailers are eye wateringly expensive compared to the full profile tyres found on older trailers.

 

[pete3000]

Yes test in 93 with the grandpa rights,prime mover upto 7.5ton plus trailer. no commercial use only for my hobby activities i.e not for profit hire or reward. I am well versed on this as I voluntarily drive minibuses over 3.5ton, under community bus schemes.
The 110 is getting on a bit now, so doesn't need a post 98 eec approved towbar, even so, I bought a proper dixon bate unit a couple of years back.

The way forward looks to be a second hand braked trailer, as per manufacturers design. Anyone have one they don't want? which needs minor work.

 

[pete3000]

thanks for the info stormin, yes the alko axles look to be ok at new but as you say they rubber doesn't convince me as it gets older. The only good part is the auto reverse hubs, but the knott avonride stuff looks nicer. I'll have to keep an eye out for the leaf stuff as I would be happier with smiley springs than sad springs

 

[CompoSimmonite]

The 110 is getting on a bit now, so doesn't need a post 98 eec approved towbar, even so, I bought a proper dixon bate unit a couple of years back.

Be careful about the chassis if a crossmember has been replaced with towing such heavy trailers. Mine was changed and no problem until started hauling a car transporter - it cracked right next to the weld. That was then welded up and spreader plates then attached over the whole area - it then cracked again both sides, again next to the weld. I can only assume Land Rover chassis must reach a point where the hidden internal rust reduces the metal thickness so it's a weak point when heavilly loaded hecne the cracks I experienced.
I scrapped a E reg / 200TDi Defender (one of the first 200TDi's) due to the same problem. When cut up the chassis was little more than cereal box thickness in places yet looked sound externally and even passed MOT's.

Paul H

 

[madkayaker]

Don't forget tachometer requirements if commercial

 

[pete3000]

Be careful about the chassis if a crossmember has been replaced with towing such heavy trailers. Mine was changed and no problem until started hauling a car transporter - it cracked right next to the weld. That was then welded up and spreader plates then attached over the whole area - it then cracked again both sides, again next to the weld. I can only assume Land Rover chassis must reach a point where the hidden internal rust reduces the metal thickness so it's a weak point when heavilly loaded hecne the cracks I experienced.
I scrapped a E reg / 200TDi Defender (one of the first 200TDi's) due to the same problem. When cut up the chassis was little more than cereal box thickness in places yet looked sound externally and even passed MOT's.

Paul H

Currently mid crossmember upgrade/replacement. 160x80 box 5mm thick. Much better than the tinfoil thick 300tdi on crossmembers. Making to original dimensions and fittings inc high lift points, but will be sealed from the weather and the rear wheels flicking mud into it.

 

[armalites]

I've been through this, I've always had a desire to build a trailer but in the end a second hand Ifor Williams was the best way to go.

If you buy the right one and look after it you won't lose money.

Be aware there are some real old nails out there and new ones are as expensive as you think especially if you at VAT registered.

A friend of mine bought a fixer upper from a national trailer dealer, got it cheap and wanted to mod it to suit requirements. It was a 3.5T digger trailer. He has ended up with something that he wanted but the hassle and money he has spent he would have been £700 away from a brand new Ifor Williams and that doesn't include the hours he's spent getting right or a set of tyres yet.

 

[madkayaker]

thats the consideration i have. i know what i want from a trailer (single axle 1500kg ish springs not rubbers in pipe, 8x5 flat bed with sides etc) and i know a new one from ifor is £1600 inc vat. the parts to build one is best part of £1000 and then your left with a home built trailer that needs testing etc that when you sell is not worth nearly as much as a ifor.