Tractor Bodywork advice please

[Osu817]

Got a job coming up to do some repairs to the bodywork of a tractor.

It appears to be a ford 4610. Can anyone help me with the thickness of the metal on the bodywork? Talking fenders mostly, and a bit of cab floor.

My best, totally uneducated guess would be something like 2mm, as it is sort of self supported, and probably going to get bashed about, but it would be great is one of you agricultural types would be able to confirm or deny this for me

Thanks

Neil

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Depends on the year.
Plus if it a real ford or a clone .

But you will find 2.5 down to 1mm in places.
Some were galvanized under the paint.

But most parts are available. New or from breakers. The cost was very reasonable as well.

 

[frank horton]

just buy new ....most stuff is as cheap as chips.....

 

[jordhandson]

Advark pretty much has it spot on with the thickness of the various tinwork. The cabs are prone to the dreaded rust the inner wings or mudgaurds especially, crap powder coating. Chop out the best you can and thoroughly clean, shot blast if possible the bits you cannot chop out. For tin work I will always got to a breaker first as the metal of replacement is so thin compared to the old tinwork depending on the age of tractor, unless the customer specify’s he wants new. Fergie wings in particular. Reminds me of one of my clients 5030. When I did the wings and inners I coated them in epoxy primmer, stone chip, then top coated them. Customer was well pleased.

Here a few pics

 

[jordhandson]

Rewarding when done though

 

[gt6s]

Can show one far rougher than that. Cab floor completly rotted out. Dam garbage powder coat.

 

[Shedendman]

Got a job coming up to do some repairs to the bodywork of a tractor.

It appears to be a ford 4610. Can anyone help me with the thickness of the metal on the bodywork? Talking fenders mostly, and a bit of cab floor.

My best, totally uneducated guess would be something like 2mm, as it is sort of self supported, and probably going to get bashed about, but it would be great is one of you agricultural types would be able to confirm or deny this for me

Thanks

NeilView attachment 320962

Does the owner want repairs or a restoration judging by the looks of it,repairs,so i'd weld back in anything,its a working horse afteral

 

[jordhandson]

Does the owner want repairs or a restoration judging by the looks of it,repairs,so i'd weld back in anything,its a working horse afteral

I would be have to disagree Shed, about welding in anything even though these beasts are work horses. If your gonna do work on something whether repairing or restoring I and my customer like to do it better than or keep it as close the original as possible. It always makes for a better investment over the long term. Thats just my 2 peneth

 

[jordhandson]

Can show one far rougher than that. Cab floor completly rotted out. Dam garbage powder coat.

I shouldnt knock it really as it brings me my bread and butter.

 

[Osu817]

Customer just wants repairs, to keep it going. Obviously I do the best I can, but he isn't looking for restoration quality, just functional and not full of rusty sharp edges!

Thanks for the advice about the paintwork too - I did think that these bits take a hammering, so this is why they have rusted out. I generally work on the principle that the use / maintenance programme isn't going to be any different after I have done my bit, so to make it as long lasting as possible.

Going to be a multiple visit job, so as long as I bring the right metal for one bit, I can measure and order the rest for my next visit.

I will look around for scrapyards which can help, but I usually find that the bits which rust out on what I am working on have rusted out on every other vehicle of that model!

Love the pictures of the restoration, always inspires me to do the best job possible.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

I will look around for scrapyards which can help, but I usually find that the bits which rust out on what I am working on have rusted out on every other vehicle of that model!

I find that as well.
But I know yards who buy mechganicly dead machines, stolen/recovered machines and strip the body panels off.
Or can at least put in the way of some one who may have panels.

 

[Shedendman]

I would be have to disagree Shed, about welding in anything even though these beasts are work horses. If your gonna do work on something whether repairing or restoring I and my customer like to do it better than or keep it as close the original as possible. It always makes for a better investment over the long term. Thats just my 2 peneth

Maybe so,but if the old story arises ie,i want it done for next to nothing,or,after the quote can you do this and that bit to,then different ball game,MONEY

 

[jordhandson]

Maybe so,but if the old story arises ie,i want it done for next to nothing,or,after the quote can you do this and that bit to,then different ball game,MONEY

I must get one person a week asking "I only want a cheap job" I alway tell them to get themself a wire brush and a pot of paint in halfrods as I dont do cheap only proper. At the end of the day when some one ask the customer where diid you get that done my names on it.

 

[Osu817]

Rust repairs are the worst, as the hole is never indicative of how bad the rust has got. I often post on my Facebook before and after, so I can refer people to them - quickly stops the "only a little hole, quick patch, maybe 10 minutes work" that I hear a lot, and definitely helps when I tell people how much it is actually likely to cost them to do a proper job of it. Even did a quiz for people by marking out all the bits of rust beforehand!

 

[Dcal]

Got a job coming up to do some repairs to the bodywork of a tractor.

It appears to be a ford 4610. Can anyone help me with the thickness of the metal on the bodywork? Talking fenders mostly, and a bit of cab floor.

My best, totally uneducated guess would be something like 2mm, as it is sort of self supported, and probably going to get bashed about, but it would be great is one of you agricultural types would be able to confirm or deny this for me

Thanks

NeilView attachment 320962

What year is it?
A mate has a similar vintage Ford I could get exact sizes from.

You can fix most things, but if it's worth it is another thing?
Few photos of a Dexta nose cone I did a while ago.

https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/attachments/img_9674-jpg.206760/

https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/attachments/img_0047-jpg.206890/

https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/data/attachments/203/203593-5205694697da7c8a06dad296f2b6d2ef.jpg

https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/attachments/img_0194-jpg.212863/

https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/attachments/img_0368-jpg.214150/

https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/attachments/img_2660-jpg.249540/

Not sure I would do another, but at least I learnt a lot and kept most of the original "Ford" stamp marks on the panels.

Hope you start a build thread on the 4610.

 

[tom2207]

Maybe so,but if the old story arises ie,i want it done for next to nothing,or,after the quote can you do this and that bit to,then different ball game,MONEY

I have the
.. G
F .. C

triangle chalked on the wall ,,,
G is for Good ,
F is for Fast and
C is for Cheap , any one wanting that type of repair is invited to pick which two they want as it will not be the third

ie
G and F wont be C
F and C wont be G
C and G wont be F
and thats how the gfc triangle works .

 

[DuncanCallum]

Engines are the same

Pick 2 of the 3 fast, reliable, cheap.