To waxoyl or not to waxoyl

[caprinut]

Just about to finish the welding, paint next. should I do the inner box sections and other crevices with waxoyl before the paint job or not.

Bert

 

[nickk]

I’ve just done this,but did wonder about thick gear oil like 140 warmed up,it’s probably cheaper.

 

[caprinut]

I'm thinking in terms of to be painted surfaces could be contaminated oil or waxoyl.

Bert

 

[qwakers]

dinitrol cavity wax would be my goto.

after the paintwork.

 

[JOEPRO]

I’ve just done this,but did wonder about thick gear oil like 140 warmed up,it’s probably cheaper.

Worst money saving idea ever! Have you smelled gear oil?

dinitrol cavity wax would be my goto.

after the paintwork.

Waxoyl shutz on the exterior and Dinitrol on the interior of cill repairs is my go to.

 

[Wildefalcon]

Not wax oil. Goes hard and flakes off. You're going to weld it twice with waxoil, second time will have more flames.

Dynax s50.

 

[steveo3002]

last job , dont want to be fighting fish eyes

 

[Ross365]

Right next to the metal goes a good primer paint, full of very clever chemicals to inhibit corrosion. And then a top coat and finally, perhaps, some Waxoyl, though I've never used it and I've owned cars for nearly 50 years.

 

[bert]

Paint first waxoil or whatever second. Anything will cause havoc with your paint

 

[nickk]

Worst money saving idea ever! Have you smelled gear oil?


Waxoyl shutz on the exterior and Dinitrol on the interior of cill repairs is my go to.

Now there’s a pleasant odour!

 

[JOEPRO]

Now there’s a pleasant odour!

Sigh....

Shouldn't bother but-

Have you used Waxoyl before at all????

I like the smell of it. It marks the end of a restoration and the smell also goes away after a few weeks. But it's actually pleasant.

Gear oil smells like eggs/ sulphur in comparison.

 

[bricol]

I've used waxoyl regularly on my 91 Pug 106 owned for 20 yrs, lives outside, rarely washed, used all weather - still original sills, rear inner wings etc.

I applied noxudol 700 all over the place on my bare Lancia shell while it was on the rotisserie so I could rotate it and leave it to make sure it got everywhere.

Got painted months later, painter never mentioned any issues.

 

[Keith 66]

Not wax oil. Goes hard and flakes off. You're going to weld it twice with waxoil, second time will have more flames.

Dynax s50.

^^^^ Very true, when i restored my Moggy pickup around 1990-1 It had a lot of new panels, chassis legs, sills, floorpan etc. All waxoyled.
Halfway through doing much of it again. In places it didnt even look as if it had ever been on there.
What i need is a drum of Cosmoline!

 

[bricol]

^^^^ Very true, when i restored my Moggy pickup around 1990-1 It had a lot of new panels, chassis legs, sills, floorpan etc. All waxoyled.
Halfway through doing much of it again. In places it didnt even look as if it had ever been on there.
What i need is a drum of Cosmoline!

None of the aftermarket spray waxes are a permanent solution - all need regularly reapplication - their very selling point of creeping into all the crevices is the reason they start to fail as the layer thins out over time. Reapply ever few years and they all seem to be reasonably good.

I learnt this after dintrolling mine - roll on a decade and I was repairing it again.

 

[norsa]

As said, at the end of the job. However. The jury is out. If it's brand new clean sections, it's good stuff but if the section has corrosion especially post welding corrosion that has not been cleaned, it will trap the water underneath and actually promote the corrosion. In the words of Mr H Callaghan. "Do you feel lucky?" As a BTW, I once did a weld repair to a chassis section that unbeknownst had been treated with waxoil. It obviously boiled it and it ran down the chassis and on to my overalls. I hadn't realised until I felt the burning. I still bear the scars 20 years on.
Nick

 

[Pigeon_Droppings2]

dinitrol cavity wax would be my goto.

after the paintwork.

+1 for Dinitrol (or other cavity wax) ....do it on a nice hot day and keep it topped up.

 

[minimutly]

^^^^ Very true, when i restored my Moggy pickup around 1990-1 It had a lot of new panels, chassis legs, sills, floorpan etc. All waxoyled.
Halfway through doing much of it again. In places it didnt even look as if it had ever been on there.
What i need is a drum of Cosmoline!

Never ever seen waxoyl go hard and flake and fall off, unless the rust layer falls off from under it. Which may indicate a problem with the waxoyl - not fully wetting the rust? Which is why I mix it with oil, whatever I have lying around really.

 

[minimutly]

As said, at the end of the job. However. The jury is out. If it's brand new clean sections, it's good stuff but if the section has corrosion especially post welding corrosion that has not been cleaned, it will trap the water underneath and actually promote the corrosion. In the words of Mr H Callaghan. "Do you feel lucky?" As a BTW, I once did a weld repair to a chassis section that unbeknownst had been treated with waxoil. It obviously boiled it and it ran down the chassis and on to my overalls. I hadn't realised until I felt the burning. I still bear the scars 20 years on.
Nick

Can become a nice fire inside cavities to, but easily put out.

 

[steveo3002]

Never ever seen waxoyl go hard and flake and fall off, unless the rust layer falls off from under it. Which may indicate a problem with the waxoyl - not fully wetting the rust? Which is why I mix it with oil, whatever I have lying around really.

i mix it with oil too , so it gives the oil enough body to hang on but not set hard