watch you tube, the likes of Jesse mccollum, mark Winchester, Jody Collier, it can be hard to take everything in of what's from above, we all do things a little different for similar results, most important thing is time under the hood
Right, managed to find some time to get back to this, I've done a few more runs with the test piece clamped down to a big chunk of 16mm Alu
I've been leaving a couple of minutes between runs to allow heat to dissipate
Rear
One of the things I noticed was the 1.6mm filler was also discoloured
Now, I thought I'd have a bit of a play with some old test pieces to try a lap joint - first try so it's a bit rubbish, but it isn't black
Which suggests to me that I'm putting too many amps in - so I measured, rather than guesstimated the material thickness, what I thought was 2mm is actually 1.5mm and the 1.5mm is actually 1.0mm
Rather than scaling down, I'm going to get hold of some thicker stainless for practice - an old phrase that I try to apply at work, It looks like I should have used here - 'never assume, always check'.
you'll know you need more post flow if your tungsten is anything other than silver, balling on your tip is down to balance, on thin material I use a higher ep I'll go more towards en the thicker the material, 2 main reasons 1 less trips to the grinder and 2 a more stable arc
with more post flow you will decrease the chance of a dirty restart
I was watching a video on fillet joints today from weldingtipsandtricks.com The tungsten seems to be a long way out of the cup - it's one of the Furick cups, but still looks to me, to be a long way out - what should be the protrusion beyond the ceramic for a standard No.5 cup? I've always assumed the ground part should be the only part protruding...