Blake's 7
Member
- Messages
- 205
- Location
- Ireland
Hello all,
I've recently installed a new 200 liter water pressure tank and pressure switch to replace their aging predecessors which had been in use for many years
fed from a submerged pump in my well. As far as I know the pump would be roughly the same age as the old tank and switch.
On the new equipment I've replicated both the electrical connection and the pipework as they were on the old system and I have water under pressure
without any leaks.
The pump is not connected to the switch, but is instead directly connected to the mains board itself mounted on the wall above the tank. There is a
separate connection from the mains to the switch with the blue neutral wire connected to a terminal on one side of the switch and the brown live wire
connected to the corresponding terminal on the other side, the earth wire is connected to the metal frame of the switch.
Furthermore, below the breakers on the mains board there is a box with a 20uF capacitor and a WEBER 4.5 amp T11-211 thermal breaker switch. I've also
replaced the capacitor with a new one of 20uF. As I said previously, I have water under pressure in the system, but the thermal switch cuts out after a
while and then the pump doesn't kick in when the pressure drops.
Before breaking the circuit completely the thermal switch makes 4 or 5 quite, but audible, clicks over the course of two or three minutes and the reset
button extends a bit further with each click until eventually the circuit is broken. The switch cannot be reset immediately, but only after two or three
minutes and then the cycle starts over again.
Questions:
[1] In normal operation is the thermal switch meant to work as I have described or is it breaking the circuit because of some problem with the pump? In
my setup is the switch just acting as a basic timer?.
[2] Can the switch be replaced with an automated one that will reset itself therefore eliminating the need to do it manually?
[3] Can the thermal switch be safely bypassed completely? And if so is it just a matter of connecting together the two wires attached to the switch?
I have attached a few photographs below to clarify things.
Looking forward to some helpful advice, Thanks.
The wiring as it is on both the old and new switches:
The mains board setup:
The thermal switch:
The reset button on the thermal switch:
I've recently installed a new 200 liter water pressure tank and pressure switch to replace their aging predecessors which had been in use for many years
fed from a submerged pump in my well. As far as I know the pump would be roughly the same age as the old tank and switch.
On the new equipment I've replicated both the electrical connection and the pipework as they were on the old system and I have water under pressure
without any leaks.
The pump is not connected to the switch, but is instead directly connected to the mains board itself mounted on the wall above the tank. There is a
separate connection from the mains to the switch with the blue neutral wire connected to a terminal on one side of the switch and the brown live wire
connected to the corresponding terminal on the other side, the earth wire is connected to the metal frame of the switch.
Furthermore, below the breakers on the mains board there is a box with a 20uF capacitor and a WEBER 4.5 amp T11-211 thermal breaker switch. I've also
replaced the capacitor with a new one of 20uF. As I said previously, I have water under pressure in the system, but the thermal switch cuts out after a
while and then the pump doesn't kick in when the pressure drops.
Before breaking the circuit completely the thermal switch makes 4 or 5 quite, but audible, clicks over the course of two or three minutes and the reset
button extends a bit further with each click until eventually the circuit is broken. The switch cannot be reset immediately, but only after two or three
minutes and then the cycle starts over again.
Questions:
[1] In normal operation is the thermal switch meant to work as I have described or is it breaking the circuit because of some problem with the pump? In
my setup is the switch just acting as a basic timer?.
[2] Can the switch be replaced with an automated one that will reset itself therefore eliminating the need to do it manually?
[3] Can the thermal switch be safely bypassed completely? And if so is it just a matter of connecting together the two wires attached to the switch?
I have attached a few photographs below to clarify things.
Looking forward to some helpful advice, Thanks.
The wiring as it is on both the old and new switches:
The mains board setup:
The thermal switch:
The reset button on the thermal switch: