Top marks for observation, believe it or not hiding under all that crap is a circlip which used to hold a bearing in. What I assumed was a bushing is actually the remains of a bearing. Mind you getting this circlip out is not going to be a 2 minute job. I will post a few more pics later on.
- Thread starter printcom
- Start date
normspanners
Member
- Messages
- 8,853
I have found on jobs like that a burning torch is your friend, using it to heat up the area, what glows red hot quickly can be got rid of with an old screwdriver or chisel where the metal has been spread like butter, I think when you have got out the old outer race the whole job will look better and not as destroyed as it does now.
Well I managed to save the circlip grooves, had to build up one side and face it off. All that left to do is run a boring bar down it to clean it up a bit and put the thing back in.
As I am doing this for a mate of mine I don't suppose I can charge him enough to cover the cost of a decent face cutter, it takes ages with a 20mm cutter.
Thanks for all the advice chaps.
![IMAG0049[1].jpg](https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/attachments/imag0049-1-jpg.68266/ "IMAG0049[1].jpg")
As I am doing this for a mate of mine I don't suppose I can charge him enough to cover the cost of a decent face cutter, it takes ages with a 20mm cutter.
Thanks for all the advice chaps.
normspanners
Member
- Messages
- 8,853
That looks a little better now, does the rose joint not hold it central ie coz it is held with the circlip that joint holds the ram end central in the clevis, therefore the side of the ram are not ctitcal ? but the clevis cheeks are ?
Badger1bear
If your not on fire, then your too far away
- Messages
- 2,218
- Location
- kent
Did you have any luck with pin on fleabay ?
AndyStobbs
Member
- Messages
- 2,475
- Location
- North West England
Is it a ram pin you need or a boom pivot pin?
Yes I grabbed that pin of off ebay, It will come in handy for the next job we just noticed that needs to be done. Thanks for the heads up. Saved him a few bob there.
I am still waiting for the bearing and pin to arrive, my mate spent his money and brought new stuff. Mind you by the time I had sourced some material and then the time to make it there's probably not a lot in it.
Ram pin, I think hes just paid £96 for one (first quote was £156), the bearings were £23 and the circlips £2 each.
Question: how do you chamfer the edge of a 75mm hole on a mill ?
AndyStobbs
Member
- Messages
- 2,475
- Location
- North West England
with a die grinder?
Or slant the head over
or use a ball mill
Or slant the head over
or use a ball mill
Windy Miller
Semi-Professional Potterer!
- Messages
- 3,646
- Location
- North Kent, UK
I am not entirely sure, but I have had to build up about 6mm+ on one side - I worked on the basis it cant hurt.
So no such thing as a 100mm chamfer bit.
Oh well wheres my die grinder......normspanners
Member
- Messages
- 8,853
As said it is not critical anyway,So no such thing as a 100mm chamfer bit.
if the inner race of the joint, is not the full width of the clevis, there might have been spacers/washers on either side to hold the ram tube central but they may very well have been destroyed in the mash up.
ACEngineering
New Member
- Messages
- 1
- Location
- Oxfordshire
Hello
I only just noticed this post so joined.
I could have supplied you a complete new ram eye which normally threads on the rod end of the ram but can be cut down and then welded on the cylinder end instead. Would have saved you no end of messing about and been as good as new proberly worked out cheaper too. Bit late now?
I repair a lot of matbros and telehandlers for a living.
normspanners
Member
- Messages
- 8,853
looks like a standard rose type joint to me, exactly what I was expecting to see, the centre section should be virtually same width as the clevis to stop side slap.
The one thing that you need to check is the roundness of the housing any clearance will allow the bearing to break up
