Suitable rods for my welder

[paulgt]

I've just bought a 200A stick welder for some internal work on an old dutch barge. Mostly cosmetic stuff but I may have to join the odd rib to hull plate. I anticipate the odd gap as we are removing some old internal plate (doublers were added in the past and we want to ensure the ribs are directly joined to the doublers). All of the external/below waterline seams are being done by a 'proper' pro.

I have recently bought a stick/plama rig which claims 200A and I'd like some advice on rods. I've found a decent deal on some castolin eutectic 4mm X 350mm rods. Should I perhaps go for 3.2mm instead? Am I being a bit too ambitious.

This is the rig:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TIG-WELDE...CT520-UK-SELLER-GRAB-A-BARGAIN-/311255370202?

Many thanks,

Paul

 

[BrokenBiker]

A 200amp arc welder will run 4mm rods all day long, my 160 amp unit would run them with ease. What thickness metal are you welding would be part of the decider for me, no point using a 4mm rod if the steel isn't thick enough for it

 

[Kent]

Ah, what are you plugging into 240v 13amp? In this case you will pop the fuse after around 120 amps! This means 3.2mm electrode tops.

If you have a better supply then you might run 4mm but with reservations about how well and at what duty cycle.

You see the Avatar of mine that's putting a new side in a Barge 5mm plate 200amp MMA off 13amp supply 3.2mm 7018 electrode at 100-120 amp on the dial. 6013 of good quality (ESAB / MUREX etc) the same 3.2 size would also work. The material looks thick on the edges 1/2" or so but they are just bump sections in-between your looking at far thinner with braces

Important question here "can you weld good?" because it aint easy work for a first project unless your just sticking on a few big tacks and stuff on. Much boat work needs inspecting by a marine engineer and there are a lot of ways to set the boat ablaze (that foam stuff needs taking off for one thing!). Don't take this the wrong way but there are lots of otherwise competent pro welders who might struggle with a stick welder and a boat not in dry dock

 

[paulgt]

Thanks guys, good food for thought. I'm stuck with 240v 13amp so will take your advice on board Kent. I've got a pro welder on board and a surveyor inspecting every bit of work. I'm just doing the tacking (and idiot proof jobs). I hope to be good by the end of the project. The boat is out of the water and has been stripped to bare steel - much to the pain of my wallet!

Thanks again,

Paul

 

[Kent]

oh the bliss of dry dock though! As long as your down there daily its worth it time wise, no days lost to rain, nothing moving as you trying to weld it and best of all massively easier / quicker

 

[Bill Edwards]

3.2mm rods, don't try anything any bigger as you will just blow fuses. You might pop them even using 3.2mm rods, especially if using long extension leads, so it won't hurt to have a spare or two to hand.
That welder you have bought should never overheat with 3.2 rods.

It is worth buying good quality rods, they don't cost much and can be much nicer to use - have a search on here and you will find some recommendations.
Be aware that they need to be kept dry, rods soak up moisture.
You could use 7018 rods but I think you would be best with 6013, a good general purpose, easy to use rod.

 

[Kent]

3.2mm rods, don't try anything any bigger as you will just blow fuses. You might pop them even using 3.2mm rods, especially if using long extension leads, so it won't hurt to have a spare or two to hand.
That welder you have bought should never overheat with 3.2 rods.

It is worth buying good quality rods, they don't cost much and can be much nicer to use - have a search on here and you will find some recommendations.
Be aware that they need to be kept dry, rods soak up moisture.
You could use 7018 rods but I think you would be best with 6013, a good general purpose, easy to use rod.

I should agree with a 6013 Bill but with one exception - they have to be good ones, you cant flip a boat to an easy angle in std dry dock

 

[Bill Edwards]

I did say that it's worth buying good quality in that post, but it probably doesn't hurt to reiterate that. It can make such a difference.

 

[Tigman]

United welding are selling 4 packets of Bohler 6013 2.5mm or 3.2mm for the price of 3 there a nice rod !

 

[Kent]

I did say that it's worth buying good quality in that post, but it probably doesn't hurt to reiterate that. It can make such a difference.

Agreed very much in 6013 that was actually the reason I mentioned 7018 first although hard to light and need re-drying etc. they do tend to come out the box capable and true all position (required on boats). Don't know what it is with 6013 that makes them so quality sensitive,

 

[paulgt]

Thanks guys - I'll check out united welding - sounds like a great deal - much appreciated!

Paul

 

[Zbro7863]

A guy in youtube has this welder he used the tig for 10 miunets and it died

 

[Bill Edwards]

Unfortunately that is always a risk with electronic equipment, which is why some like to buy from reputable suppliers who will be around to honor the warranty.
Others are prepared to take a risk, you can sometimes get a lot of machine for the money.

 

[Zbro7863]

I would have got an rtech mma personally

 

[paulgt]

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the input - I realise it is a roll of the dice. I'll report back once it has seen some action.

All the best,

Paul