Stud Wall

[Milkybars]

So recenlty I had to take down the end wall of the workshop roughly 7.5 x 3 m to enable some building works.
The wall got built back in solid concrete blocks 140 thick 7.3kn on top of engineeing brick up to damp course ..this protudes out on the interior side by circa 75mm

The water staining was caused before guttering and roof could be sealed up correctly, the wall is now consitently dry

The exterior face has been painted (for vanity).

Workshop is a large open area that I do not heat, aside from residual heat from dehumidifer
I need to put a stud wall in front of this new wall ..and this is where i need assistance or verification of my plan.

Current sratergy is to build the stud wall away from the wall due to foootings.
Bottom 2 x 4" fixed to concrete floor and same fixed at the top also fixed back across the void to the wall
Vertical studs on 600 centres and using 100mm thick PIR board foil backed filling the gaps, fitted tightly and foamed where necessary.
The wall covering is planned to be T&G 18mm OSB, this is somewhat an overkill but should be able to fix to it with ease and I am using it for noise reduction as well.

I do not see the point in breathable or non breathable membranes because of the lack of heating. large space and flat warm roof with false ceilings
Nothing will be air tight although the T&G OSB should act as reasonable moisture barrier even before its painted
There will be a fairly large void behind the stud wall and this will not be ventilated ..but any moisture would drop on to the DPM in the worst case senario

The new stud wall will also have a door frame fixed to it to close up the opening above

Hopefully this all make sense and is sensible ...

 

[gaz1]

if your worried about the damp keep the wood off the floor use 3x2 plastic as packers at the vertical points and then fix the 3x2s to that for the front view just plastic skirting
board it

i would do that with concrete sheds the only reason why i would use the membraine is to stop the board going further back that what it should when installing the insulation

 

[Milkybars]

@gaz1 yeah i had thought about that and have a lot of timber off cuts / pallets and going to use them to stop the PIR going straight through.
I like the idea of the packers, thanks for the comment

 

[gaz1]

the 3x2 plastic cutoffs just lifts it off the floor

its these

Recycled Plastic Joist 50 x 100mm | Rot Proof Lumber | Earth Anchors

50 x 100mm recycled plastic lumber. Ideal for replacing slats on old furniture. Available in black or brown and in several lengths.

www.earth-anchors.com

or there with pallets as the 4x4 in place of the wood packers if you want free

then just build your timber frame as normal and sit it upon those plastic packer pieces

then skirting

100mm Roomline Ogee/Torus uPVC Plastic Skirting Board (2.5m)

Tough uPVC plastic skirting with realistic woodgrain that echoes traditional timber skirting board. Hard-wearing, low maintenance and easy to fit.

www.trulypvc.com

i have a concrete panel shed so if i wanted to insulate it out its one of the best ways to do it and stop it from rotting at the bottom

 

[Beeezer]

That blue brick work looks shat or are they bad pictures?

 

[addjunkie]

You could buy a product called stork board and cut it into strips to go under your timber frame. Its just sheets made out of recycled bale wrap. Then just fix straight through it to the floor.