chunkolini
celebrity artiste
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- Swansea
This is what I removed.
The seals are as they were in situ.
The seals are as they were in situ.
- Thread starter chunkolini
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chunkolini
celebrity artiste
- Messages
- 9,667
- Location
- Swansea
Yep, they were not much dearer than balls. I have heard arguments either way.
I figured they work hard, and paid a bit extra for decent ones..
Why can you not buy sealed races?
I figured they work hard, and paid a bit extra for decent ones..
Why can you not buy sealed races?
CRB
Member
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Plain one are probably available, just not tapered.
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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Look up sealed taper bearings at bearing king . co .uk there is a seal on the outer track , there may be a size that suits you .
Maybe to stop rust attacking the bearing on the open side perhaps use some greased foam sponge in the tube to make the area of rusting /corrosion as small of possible
Till I just searched for it I would have said they don't exist ... I'm very happy to be proved wrong.
food for thought perhaps ...
Re
Removing the race cups ,
Instead of risking putting a big burr / groove on the inside of the tube or making it go ovalid / loose .
File or grind and file square lips on two flat 14 x14 x 300 mm or so long bars or do it on two bits of angle iron at the ends of the angle . So that they engage with the inner lower lip of the cup .
Drill a 11 mm hole at the other ends , put the levers in place , lift them up so the lips engage , mark this position , take the levers out. File , hacksaw or grind a fulcrum point just above this mark so that you can insert something round such as a tommy bar , at the top end of these levers insert a threaded bolt and nut , tighten it up so the lips of the levers engage . Put a long bar under the top end of the tension bolt and give it a gentle wallop with a hammer to knock the bearing cup out .
If you have some chain you can put the chain round the bolt and wrap the other ends round decent sized a lump hammer so that in effect you have made a slide /shock hammer.
A swift strike up away form the tube will bring them out like a politician looking for votes at election time .
I have also used the shock / slide hammer principle & chain with a long bolt & nut on the end.
Slid over the bolt threads at the end head was couple of flat washers that fitted down through thee cup , a 2inch section of steel tube that fitted over the blt with a champhered edge that had almost been cut in half from top to bottom , the top two faces were filed down towards the cut slot so that when I opened the tube up , the top edge of the tube was almost flat.
With the tube assembled on the long bolt & a yard of 1" chain also in it at both ends it was a simple case of opening the split tube up a bit bigger than the race cup sliding slipping it down inside the tube and pulling it up so that it engaged with eh cups . I put a heavy spanner in the loop of chain , smartly brought it up & the cup came flying out . Taking out the other cup was easy , I used a 12" extension and a socket that had clearance down the tube , knocked it out with a hammer and lump of wood as the shock mat to save knackering the head of the extension.
Maybe to stop rust attacking the bearing on the open side perhaps use some greased foam sponge in the tube to make the area of rusting /corrosion as small of possible
Till I just searched for it I would have said they don't exist ... I'm very happy to be proved wrong.
food for thought perhaps ...
Re
Removing the race cups ,
Instead of risking putting a big burr / groove on the inside of the tube or making it go ovalid / loose .
File or grind and file square lips on two flat 14 x14 x 300 mm or so long bars or do it on two bits of angle iron at the ends of the angle . So that they engage with the inner lower lip of the cup .
Drill a 11 mm hole at the other ends , put the levers in place , lift them up so the lips engage , mark this position , take the levers out. File , hacksaw or grind a fulcrum point just above this mark so that you can insert something round such as a tommy bar , at the top end of these levers insert a threaded bolt and nut , tighten it up so the lips of the levers engage . Put a long bar under the top end of the tension bolt and give it a gentle wallop with a hammer to knock the bearing cup out .
If you have some chain you can put the chain round the bolt and wrap the other ends round decent sized a lump hammer so that in effect you have made a slide /shock hammer.
A swift strike up away form the tube will bring them out like a politician looking for votes at election time .
I have also used the shock / slide hammer principle & chain with a long bolt & nut on the end.
Slid over the bolt threads at the end head was couple of flat washers that fitted down through thee cup , a 2inch section of steel tube that fitted over the blt with a champhered edge that had almost been cut in half from top to bottom , the top two faces were filed down towards the cut slot so that when I opened the tube up , the top edge of the tube was almost flat.
With the tube assembled on the long bolt & a yard of 1" chain also in it at both ends it was a simple case of opening the split tube up a bit bigger than the race cup sliding slipping it down inside the tube and pulling it up so that it engaged with eh cups . I put a heavy spanner in the loop of chain , smartly brought it up & the cup came flying out . Taking out the other cup was easy , I used a 12" extension and a socket that had clearance down the tube , knocked it out with a hammer and lump of wood as the shock mat to save knackering the head of the extension.
