Stonechip cracking.

[Weldinator]

The stonechip i have applied seems to be cracking, is it because there is too much on it ?

It's only in 3 places out of two inner wings.

What shall i do about rectifying this ?

 

[vpug]

Hi
It does look like the coats may have been to heavy, but if there had been any underseal or waxoil not removed it does the same.
Thanks vpug

 

[Weldinator]

Thanks.

In that area there is only the first coat which was applied a week or so ago, then zinc on the bare steel. There is some old sealant still on the inner wing in places but thats fine.

Im thinking of sanding it down a bit.

 

[vpug]

Hi
If it looks and feels sound, just put a bit of seam sealer in the cracks and that will do.
Thanks Vpug

 

[Weldinator]

I was trying to cover the wing welded edges, so it's all smooth and applied too much, ill use some sealer on top.

 

[kouki paul]

stone chip can also crack and pull if subsequent coats are applied to soon and the underlying layer hasnt cured enough.

 

[Punx0r]

Thanks.

In that area there is only the first coat which was applied a week or so ago, then zinc on the bare steel. There is some old sealant still on the inner wing in places but thats fine.

Im thinking of sanding it down a bit.

I had a problem with applying tetraschutz stone chip over Zinc182 primer. The result always looked like crazy pathing, even if the I left weeks between coats!

 

[steveo3002]

I had a problem with applying tetraschutz stone chip over Zinc182 primer. The result always looked like crazy pathing, even if the I left weeks between coats!

its the heavy solvent softening whats under it

 

[Weldinator]

The high zinc primer was on the inner wing for over a week, it states it needs to be cured for 4 full 24 hr days, especially when a high solvent paint is going to be applied on top.

I think i'll apply a good flexible seam sealant over the welded seams inside the inner wings, then paint it. Im not bothered how it looks underneath because its a dark coloured car anyway. I just want it to resist the rust and water/stones as much and as long as possible. Using 2k stuff was not possible due to budget.

I have tried to scrape zinc primer by nail and its fine, tried etch primer with same finger nail and its the same. I then tried to scrape them both with a screwdriver/chisel and they both scraped off using the same technique.

 

[steveo3002]

next time...on a floor pan you can brush on jotoamastic or rustbuster epoxy mastic without any fear , then it takes anything over the top once cured

 

[Weldinator]

I googled it and it seems they are too pack paints.

 

[Weldinator]

Well as i thought, the stonechip where its cracking has peeled off by hand/scrapper.

I kept peeling until the edges wont come off anymore.

 

[steveo3002]

are the brown bits rust

 

[Weldinator]

Old sealant thats been there since car was new so thought no need to remove that as well.

All rust has been sorted everywhere in the inner wings. I wish i could use epoxy but no space for air fed mask.

Then i have recently read about rust bullet paint, i could have used that on the bare steel first, then stonechip.

I then found RAPTOR which is 2k paint but also expensive.

I think the stonechip paint tutorial needs to add these other paints because they seem far more advanced than just stonechip.

 

[steveo3002]

i keep saying ...the jotamastic is non isocyanite , so safe to brush on in a ventilated area

ive never really had any problems like that , a heavy coat will need a while to go off and some heat this time of year

 

[Weldinator]

Jotamastic i cant seem to find on google, can you send me a link of it please ?

I have used some heat, when i have not its not too cold where its stored and its not been all that cold this winter so far.

 

[steveo3002]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Jotun-Jot...ial_Paint_Varnish_MJ&var=&hash=item82661b99a5

 

[Weldinator]

Thanks

what are its characteristics ? Does it have to be bare steel ? Can it be on stonechip ?

 

[steveo3002]

best results on bare metal , seems to go over any reasonble prep

id suggest a few coats of that to protect the bare metal , then a normal coat of stonchip for a neat finish