grumpygramps-2007
Member
- Messages
- 42
using the thin metal technique with gassless. do you do a tack clean the slag the another or can you do more than one at a time. cheers gramps.
- Thread starter grumpygramps-2007
- Start date
As above, but if you are on very thin metal you won't be able to hot chain tack very far without blowing through. Then you have to do a spot tack, space, do another, space, etc.
Then use a stiff wire brush to clean the row of tacks before doing the same again, aiming about halfway through the previous ones so you get a continuous line of weld.
I find if I use a good-quality flux-cored wire there is rarely need to chip any slag, it generally comes off with a good wire brushing.
Then use a stiff wire brush to clean the row of tacks before doing the same again, aiming about halfway through the previous ones so you get a continuous line of weld.
I find if I use a good-quality flux-cored wire there is rarely need to chip any slag, it generally comes off with a good wire brushing.
grumpygramps-2007
Member
- Messages
- 42
cheers fella.
For thin automotive (0.7mm less whatever you took off) with Gasless...
- Tack weld every inch or so, then perhaps every half inch.
- Wire brush the area, toothbrush sized 99p.
- Weld in between the tack welds and weld back into tack weld.
Welding back into the tack weld means you are welding into thicker metal, so absorbing the heat and reducing the weld pools tendency to blow through on the very thinnest metal.
Lincoln Innershield 0.72mm Gasless.
Think the UK seller just put the price up £2 after it got too many mentions here!! Innershield Gasless 0.72mm + Clarke MIG + 0.7mm automotive + 0.8mm Zintec = butt joint fine with only moderate skill. You will only blow tiny holes if you have left a) rust pits and b) did not clean bright steel both sides - it is intolerant of contamination. Gives quite flat welds with good penetration.
For upside down plug welds, cheat.
Use two pieces of thin 0.5-0.6mm copper sheet mole gripped tight behind, perhaps only drill a 4mm hole through both sheets & copper sheet behind. Plug weld away, the copper stops it blowing through, the small 4mm hole soon gets bigger and you get a nice solid weld. Must clamp the two sheets very tightly. Works well even with "was 0.7mm now 0.5-0.4mm" bright steel and 0.8mm cover.
Gas is vastly superior to gasless, but gasless can be made to work.
- Tack weld every inch or so, then perhaps every half inch.
- Wire brush the area, toothbrush sized 99p.
- Weld in between the tack welds and weld back into tack weld.
Welding back into the tack weld means you are welding into thicker metal, so absorbing the heat and reducing the weld pools tendency to blow through on the very thinnest metal.
Lincoln Innershield 0.72mm Gasless.
Think the UK seller just put the price up £2 after it got too many mentions here!! Innershield Gasless 0.72mm + Clarke MIG + 0.7mm automotive + 0.8mm Zintec = butt joint fine with only moderate skill. You will only blow tiny holes if you have left a) rust pits and b) did not clean bright steel both sides - it is intolerant of contamination. Gives quite flat welds with good penetration.
For upside down plug welds, cheat.
Use two pieces of thin 0.5-0.6mm copper sheet mole gripped tight behind, perhaps only drill a 4mm hole through both sheets & copper sheet behind. Plug weld away, the copper stops it blowing through, the small 4mm hole soon gets bigger and you get a nice solid weld. Must clamp the two sheets very tightly. Works well even with "was 0.7mm now 0.5-0.4mm" bright steel and 0.8mm cover.
Gas is vastly superior to gasless, but gasless can be made to work.
grumpygramps-2007
Member
- Messages
- 42
thanks for that jb.sticking with gasless as the amount i,am doing doesn,t warrant a gas bottle, plus its all outside & has to be fairly mobile.
Thanks jb. Good gasless post, couldn't have put it so well myself.
Interesting tip about drilling both layers of steel and the copper strip beneath before welding, as I don't usually drill the bottom hole when plugging unless there's no alternative. The copper strip is very useful when welding on thin metal, whether using gas or gasless.
I once saw a guy do a continuous vertical down butt weld of almost 12 inches with gasless, on a very thin panel about 0.8mm moving very fast, and yes, he had a copper strip behind. I'm nowhere near that accurate, let alone fast.
I have used the same Lincoln gasless wire on thin stuff too, but as said, the job does need to be very clean.
Best of luck with the gasless, grumpy! I guess if all the tips on using gasless were put together we could have a whole new section...
Interesting tip about drilling both layers of steel and the copper strip beneath before welding, as I don't usually drill the bottom hole when plugging unless there's no alternative. The copper strip is very useful when welding on thin metal, whether using gas or gasless.
I once saw a guy do a continuous vertical down butt weld of almost 12 inches with gasless, on a very thin panel about 0.8mm moving very fast, and yes, he had a copper strip behind. I'm nowhere near that accurate, let alone fast.
I have used the same Lincoln gasless wire on thin stuff too, but as said, the job does need to be very clean.
Best of luck with the gasless, grumpy! I guess if all the tips on using gasless were put together we could have a whole new section...
Just thought I'd mention that I find the SIP gasless wire pretty decent. As concerns stitch welding, as has previously been said, if you don't wait for the flux to cool you can strike an arc through the previous weld without a problem. Even when it has cooled, I find a quick wipe over with my glove cleans it up enough to strike an arc.
