Stihl MS361 help needed

[Memmeddu]

Hi everyone
Last week I've completed the assembly of my MS361 to upload the restoration video.
It wasn't idling properly and kinda flooding.
I've thought about a carburetor problem and I was right.
Today I've opened the carb on the mitering diaphragm side check the needle valve lever and it was little high I've adjusted it, reassembled.
I've set the jets at Stihl recommended settings so 1/8L and 3/4H as it still has the limiter caps installed
Started almost instantly.
Held idle great, great or better perfect Tigger response running up to limiter instantly.
The engine revs up to 13800RPMs then the limiter cuts out backfiring shutting flames out of the exhaust
I've had the tachometer connected so I've shut it off for picking up a screwdriver to set the idle.
Now Stihl says 14000 maximum RPM , I'd like to set it at 12800 because I don't like small engine to run that lean .
I've attempted to restart but nothing to do.
I'm suspecting the ignition module is faulty because it pops and bangs constantly over 8000 RPMs.
And I remember it was a common fault
But might be the sparkplug too.
Have you got any similar experience? Or bit of advice

 

[JOEPRO]

Have you stripped down the carb and ultrasonic cleaned it?

Full new, fresh rebuild kit in the carb?

 

[Memmeddu]

Have you stripped down the carb and ultrasonic cleaned it?

Full new, fresh rebuild kit in the carb?

Stripped down and used brake and carb cleaner on every single orifice.
Fully rebuilt
Cheap sparkplug I didn't have a new NGK but someone says champion work the best on Stihl chainsaws

 

[angellonewolf]

needs sonic clean carb clean will blow it out but leave hard stuff in carb buy as jewellery cleaner ive used those well for years for small carbs

 

[Memmeddu]

needs sonic clean carb clean will blow it out but leave hard stuff in carb buy as jewellery cleaner ive used those well for years for small carbs

But would a dirty carb works great till rev limiter than over fuel till quit sparking and kinda act like launch control at around 13k rpm slowing down the engine till 10k again till 13k continuously?
Looks strange to me a dirty carb usually doesn't work at all or runs lean and sparkplug has a nice brown colour.
I'd love to get an ultrasonic cleaner but planets didn't aligned yet

 

[Memmeddu]

Edit

Compulsively bought this little one
It should be enough for most carburetors

 

[angellonewolf]

is it a new carb kit in it

@JOEPRO prob a better person than me for info

but i allways work on if it starts and runs it can be fixed with a bit of time and small amounts of money

but a few tools and parts needed

 

[Memmeddu]

is it a new carb kit in it

@JOEPRO prob a better person than me for info

but i allways work on if it starts and runs it can be fixed with a bit of time and small amounts of money

but a few tools and parts needed

Yes new carb kit,
I have most of the Needed tools to work on small engines aka
Carb tuning screwdrivers set
Mitering diaphragm lever index for both Zama and Walbro carbs
Tachometer
Now I'm waiting the ultrasonic cleaner but I'm now only missing vacuum and pressure tester.

 

[Memmeddu]

Updates
This morning I've found an NGK BPM7A in my car I've cleaned it up
Put it on the saw started no problems
Little carb tuning and it's impossible to run it lean.
It still gets up to 14000RPM no chain but the spark plug's very blackish colour it's rich enough.
Not so great throttle response but at least it runs good enough.
I think it got some time of muffler mod.
I've set the idle at around 2500 RPM and it load up and down about 50RPM.
It bogs down a little at first pull probably rings still need to break in to increase compression and give an hotter combustion or maybe it's the fuel mixture with excessive oil as it's surely more than 2% fully synthetic.
But after this little pull it has great response.
I don't think it's lean and I think the carburetor Is working fine.
Surely not getting big clouds of smoke or flames out of the exhaust anymore.
I should have to remove the limiter caps to open the H jet further more to be little Richer at higher RPMs but I have to put bar and chain on it to be sure.
Till then I think it's a success for now
Still have to understand how it's possible that a similar displacement chainsaw gets up to 14000 RPMs because I think it's little bit too much but it doesn't works if not

 

[angellonewolf]

are you not supposed to have that chain and bar on set at the right tightness and have it warm before any playing with the carb settings ? or when your using it it wont work right ?

 

[Memmeddu]

are you not supposed to have that chain and bar on set at the right tightness and have it warm before any playing with the carb settings ? or when your using it it wont work right ?

Yes I am
It's the correct way to set a chainsaw carb.
I've ordered the wrong bar and chain and really can't buy another one before two weeks
The original one I've got doesn't fit the studs, and over here are expensive as hell.
And online I cannot find one that specifies it's meant to fit my specific model.
I've wanted to set it up for at least idling and rev up without exploding.

 

[dan.taylor.1]

Definitely always tune a saw with the bar and chain on. I think Bosch plugs came as standard on a lot of Stihl saws. But an NGK would be my choice, though I think it should be a BPMR7A.

 

[Memmeddu]

Definitely always tune a saw with the bar and chain on. I think Bosch plugs came as standard on a lot of Stihl saws. But an NGK would be my choice, though I think it should be a BPMR7A.

Resistor type plug?

 

[JOEPRO]

Check the spark plug gap spec and gap the plug to suit. This can make quite a difference

 

[dan.taylor.1]

Just checked, Bosch WSR6F or NGK BPMR6A

 

[Memmeddu]

Check the spark plug gap spec and gap the plug to suit. This can make quite a difference

It should be 0.5mm I've not check that

Just checked, Bosch WSR6F or NGK BPMR6A

I'll try to see if I manage to get one