Steady hand , how ?

[tigler]

A steady hand for TIG welding is obviously a necessity , what if you don't have a naturally steady hand , like me ?
I haven't used my TIG for ages and recently fired it up to check all the functions , my hand was all over the place !! Does this ability improve with practice ?

 

[backpurge]

It does, but the main thing is to get as comfortable as possible, sit down if you can and rest your hand on something

 

[brookie456]

It does, but the main thing is to get as comfortable as possible, sit down if you can and rest your hand on something

Wise words indeed

 

[busa]

As already said, get as comfortable as possible. Drape the lead over your shoulder so as to take some weight off your torch hand. Hold the torch with a very light grip, just sufficient to keep it under control, don't try to squeeze the life out of it!
If you are the only one who uses the torch, and the switch is adjustable, then take some time to position the trigger switch where it suits you, some people prefer to use the index finger, others favour the thumb, really down to personal preference.
Resting the side or back of your torch hand can go a long way to steadying things up, even touching down with the little finger. If you do get out of position and your hand starts shaking then stop, rearrange your position and start off again.

 

[Hitch]

Agreed, gettting comfortable is the key i think. I normally do it sitting down with hand rested if possible, even if its only rested on my knee.
Put the torch where you would start and move it the same as you would as you weld, to make sure you are in a good position throughout the weld before you start off.

 

[Paul.]

I have a plastic block, about 150mm x 100mm x 50mm as a rest, it can be flipped over to get different heights, I also have a habit of coiling the lead once round the forearm to take the weight, if you do it right you can drop the torch to use your hand and it will hang over the arm, a flick of the wrist and its back in the hand, easier to show than explain I think, gently resting on an extended finger can help a great deal, stick a ceramic on to extend the reach if yer fingers aint too fat. when welding round corners do a dummy run to be sure you can get the range of movement in your wrist and arm without stopping.

 

[tigler]

Do TIG welders also have funny handshakes then ?

Thanks guys , very enlightening info. Must start practicing to find my personal best comfort position. Also need to try my footpedal , never got around to it yet. That must help by removing the need to keep a button pressed on the torch , although there is a latch on the Murex so that the torch button is pressed once for on then again for off.

 

[runnach]

To add to wise replies above, I also advise one other point not mentioned so far, for example: I am left handed, I have my standing, or sitting bod with work on L/H/S of bench, my torso over to right, with me viewing in and along joint to be welded. This gives welder a better view of what is going on with molten matl, weld profile ect. It also keep welders head out of fume plume.

Very often learners tend to sit right over joint being welded, with an end result of not being able to have full vision, as hand/torch prohibits vision. Obviously this will change depending on type of work being performed........

 

[busa]

I think we're all agreed that getting comfortable plays a major part in torch control. Perhaps just as important is the torch itself. Fixed head torches are difficult to use on positional work, getting the business end of the torch in the correct position relative to the butt often places the handle too far away to reach with a steadying finger, this leaves you no option other than working freehand. Flexi head torches overcome this problem and are much more suited to out of position work.
Standard gas cooled torches usually come with either seperate gas hose and power cable or with integrated gas and power through one braided hose, in both setups there is also a cable for the trigger switch(es). The various elements are usually covered with a sheath which holds them together and protects them. Plastic sheaths are a royal pain in the butt to fit and seem to become stiffer with age, the resultant loss of flexibility will obviously affect torch control, a bit like trying to wrestle an iron bar! There are better zipped sheaths available in different lengths which are an absolute doddle to fit, don't stiffen up with age, and only cost a few pounds.
Finally, the choice of torch, for most light TIG work a WP17 is a good all round torch, lightweight, flexible and easy to find spares for. For heavier use the WP26 has more or less become the industry standard.

 

[Paul.]

Agreed, flexible head torches all the time for me, I get through about 5 or 6 a year, but only pay about a tenner for them, As Terry I am also left handed and tend to weld towards me, a lot of my work is off the bench so a pedal isn't much use, but I do have a simple foot switch which can be useful on delicate work, or in awkward positions, Ive operated it between my knees and even had a mate operate it remotely for me.

 

[runnach]

Ditto with flexi heads, they are brill, I have one fitted to one plant, handy to let lads see what is available and, how it can make some jobs easier compared to a standard tig torch..............

 

[Charred fingers]

A question about these flexi heads? are they all the same fitting and easy to fit? The reason I ask is I fired the tig up for the first time yesterday after finally sorting out an Argon supply, and came to the conclusion that the torch angle isn't a natural one for me working right to left when you try to get your body to the left of the torch to get a good view of what's going on.
I usually bend O/A nozzles to get a better angle when using gas.

 

[Paul.]

Just the same as a normal torch, the only difference is internally the neck of the torch has a bendy coil of copper instead of a solid neck, to look at it you wouldn't know the difference.

 

[Charred fingers]

Just the same as a normal torch, the only difference is internally the neck of the torch has a bendy coil of copper instead of a solid neck, to look at it you wouldn't know the difference.

Thanks for that, will have a hunt round for one

 

[Paul.]

Thanks for that, will have a hunt round for one

I've been buying them off Ebay, here's a WP17F they don't last forever whichever brand you buy, and always snap when you most need it, so I get 2 at a time, then when one breaks buy another 2,

 

[Charred fingers]

Thanks paul found some at Cromwells at £7.04 inc vat carriage is £4.95, a couple would be under £20

 

[Paul.]

That's a good price, I hope they've got them, I have a trade account with cromwell, it seems that every time I find a bargain on there it's out of stock.

 

[Charred fingers]

That's a good price, I hope they've got them, I have a trade account with cromwell, it seems that every time I find a bargain on there it's out of stock.

The web page shows them in stock I'd better get there before you do !!

 

[busa]

Agreed, flexible head torches all the time for me, I get through about 5 or 6 a year, but only pay about a tenner for them, As Terry I am also left handed and tend to weld towards me, a lot of my work is off the bench so a pedal isn't much use, but I do have a simple foot switch which can be useful on delicate work, or in awkward positions, Ive operated it between my knees and even had a mate operate it remotely for me.

I fitted a footswitch to my home Tig. A simple momentary pedal switch costs 5 or 6 quid from Maplins, wired directly into the torch plug and just coiled up on top of the set when not in use. Like paul I use it most for delicate work or whenever position makes access to the torch trigger awkward.