Bit messy where you've stopped/started but i would say thats a pretty good start, concentrate on getting a good consistent bead before adding any weave.
Thanks for that. Welder is only scratch start can be a pain in the hole to start because it also has a high OCV to burn a cel rod so sometimes sticks like mad if your not carefull. I can do straight joints no problem lap butt t fillets it's the pipe that gets me
instead of scratching the tungsten to get it to arc, have you tried resting the ceramic on the joint then rocking the torch in. just enough to get an arc, nothing to aggressive just a gentle rocking motion in and back out once the arc is going, then weld as normal
Your welds looks cold, I'd say you should get control on your AMP.
a common rule my teacher always told me was | 1mm=30AMP | and then it depends on the welder himself, everybody welds differently, some slower others faster.
I' hope you understood what I wrote my english is not pretty.
# 1 thing i'd suggest is to stop weaving / trying to walk the cup. 2nd, don't worry about things like 'weld colour' or prettyness yet, those things should take care of themselves with time
From the looks of things you've missed the root of the joint (red arrow). Pretty common when learning with fillets and lap welds, more info in the TIG tutorials and this thread... http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/arc-length.7862/ Searching the TIG forum for 'lack of fusion' will get you a bunch more on the subject too. There's also undercutting at the edges (toes) of the weld and some voids too. A chunk of that looks to be related to you weaving or maybe going over the weld a second time without filler wire to try and smooth/neaten it?