someone plz explain the settings asap

[xpackken]

hey guys just had this mask delivered in the post today , i know its not the best but it seems good quality for what i will be using it for ,

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120603669795&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT


the instructions arnt all that clear can someone explain what the setting do and what mine will need to be on for car mig welding 1.2 gauge :

settings are ;

sensitivity high - mid- low

delay ; slow-mid-fast

shade on the side 9.10.11.12.13







i am flapping abit is it doesnt go dark when i look up at the bright sun lol it just flickers !!!

 

[pedrobedro]

Try looking at a fluorescent light, the sun is a bit far away I leave mine on high sensitivity and I can't see a difference between short delay and long as it is measured in milliseconds. The shade is just how dark it goes for different amps when welding.

 

[crazy]

mask

sorry m8 can't help u never used one, thinking about getting one so if it is any good, any chance you could let us know good or bad

 

[Luke]

Set it to
Sensitivity = high
delay = fast
shade = 13

If it doesn't go dark when you look at a source of bright light (a tube light is enough) then I would chuck it in the bin.

I wouldn't risk the one pair of eyes I've got on an unbranded 25 quid ebay wonder.

 

[gordon stephenson]

Auto lens should also darken straight away if you use a lighter in front of the lens, the shower of sparks should make it react.

 

[GrahamGKD]

My SIF Lite doesn't go dark when I look at the sun - works absolutely fine when welding though. Graham.

 

[stucktoweld]

Its not in my mind a grinding helmet with a light shade of 4? I think that's a little over optimistic. the light shade 4 is for positioning of the weld. other setting depends on the amps used. Sensitivity depends on if your working outside or inside if outside in full sun the mask might stay dark all the time or constantly flash dark light as you move about.
the important one is the dark shade not to light
so start with as stated above high/fast/13 and adjust from there down to suit

 

[voipio]

The shade setting determines how dark the lens gets when it's triggered; if you can't see enough when welding, choose a lighter shade settting. The delay sets the interval between the arc extinguishing and the lens lightening up to it's undarkened state (approx shade #4). The sensitivity sets how sensitive the helmet is to the light from the arc; for most situations turn the sensitivity up to max. If the lens darkens before the arc is struck, reduce the sensitivity. The grinding setting turns off auto-darkening, else you wouldn't be able to see what you were grinding. Leave the helmet pointed at and close to a bright light source for a while before use to charge the internal battery.

To make these helmets react when the arc is struck whilst minimising spurious darkening by changes in ambient light e.g. clouds passing in front of the sun, the circuitry in these helmets is designed to react to rapid changes in light level rather than to the light level itself, which is fine for most types of arc welding because the arc flickers quite a bit. However, if you look through the lens at a car headlamp bulb, which gives off a fairly constant light, the lens might go dark initially and then lighten. If you wave your fingers across the light path between bulb and sensors, the lens will darken again. The same is true for the sun. It's not that the sun is too dark, it's simply too constant. A flickering arc will keep the lens dark without any problems but you might have trouble keeping the lens dark with a very stable low current DC TIG arc. In such a situation, ensuring the sensitivity is set to max and setting the delay to max will reduce this effect. The sensors are more sensitive to infra red than to visible light, so an incandescent lamp will be a better trigger than a compact fluorescent. The light from low wattage incandescent lamps flickers more than higher wattage bulbs, because the thermal mass of the filament is lower, so you might find the helmet reacting more easily to a 15Watt night light than a 500Watt halogen floodlight.

 

[barrygibson]

Set it to
Sensitivity = high
delay = fast
shade = 13

If it doesn't go dark when you look at a source of bright light (a tube light is enough) then I would chuck it in the bin.

I wouldn't risk the one pair of eyes I've got on an unbranded 25 quid ebay wonder.

Yep my thoughts exactly.