So how good is Plumber's Mait really?

[Tobymonster]

As the title says really, are there people that swear by it or is it only a short term temporary fix? The ceiling is dripping water directly above the electricity meter, which would be useful to have if I'm going to cook the Christmas dinner! The radiator valve that is leaking is in the same room as the Mother-in-law-from-hell is staying in, so I can't really take up floorboards to replace the pipe as I think the olive/valve is fubar'd. As much as I would like to kick her out, will it last over Christmas?

Cheers people!

 

[the snooper]

why lift floor boards to replace pipe / radiator valve ?

i would just drian the system to below that valvle and replace it fill up again and bleed not worth bodging

 

[kingkenny]

if its the olive thats passing,as stated do a partial drain down,undo nut and wind some PTFE around the olive,re-tighten,fill up,bleed rad.

 

[decepticon]

drain it and do a proper job if you are lifting floor boards. plumbers mait is good stuff though but i would probably use ptfe, it all depends what is leaking really-if it is a thread/olive then ptfe

 

[jaykay]

as above ptfe

 

[pedrobedro]

If it's leaking up the stem of the valve try tightening the gland nut round the stem. If it's getting past the olive do it properly as the olive to union body is the seal not the threaded part of the union, that just compresses the olive to the pipe. Oh and to answer the first question, Plumber's Mait is good for sealing threads.

 

[invicta]

If it's leaking up the stem of the valve try tightening the gland nut round the stem. If it's getting past the olive do it properly as the olive to union body is the seal not the threaded part of the union, that just compresses the olive to the pipe. Oh and to answer the first question, Plumber's Mait is good for sealing threads.

Standard material for making compression joints (but you still need clean pipes and square cuts with correct preparation.) I believe in the old methods and they still work. PTFE is not a panancea for poor preparation. If the valve is leaking, re-sealing the stuffing box will do. If the valves are cheap, then replacement valves may be the only solution. If they are all cheap, it may be time to replace the lot. Long term maintenance is better than getting ripped off by a muppet who has not heard of Peglers Belmont valves. I am assuming you are doing this work so decide carefully. Re-making joints is sometimetimes necessary due to many years of thermal movement. Too many think a powerflush is the only solution I hope I have not over reacted.

 

[Tobymonster]

Its leaking from the front face of the nut as I think the olive is not seating properly, being damaged or nicked. As the thread side is tight and not wet then PTFE tape will not do anything. The Plumbers Mait has been simply pushed into the join around the pipe and nut. There's only a very slight weep now and periodically wringing out of the rag around the valve is stopping the carpet getting wet. I did find some Boss White in the garage, a bit cruddy but I shall slap some around the olive.

Cheers.

 

[hunter27]

Don't bodge it. If it is the pipe to valve olive get a new olive, I am sure you have already had some humongous grips on it already so the pipe is probably necked so cut of the end off the pipe with the olive on and if you are lucky there will be a bit of slack pipe to pull up from under the floor. If not then depending on your soldering ability extend the pipe with an end feed coupler or use a compression one. If it is leaking from the stuffing box now is a good time to replace the valve. Do not over tighten the nut especially if it is 10mm pipe and don't forget you will probably have inhibitor in your system which will want replacing if you have to drain off much water.
They give us 12 minutes for this + a drain down
Good luck
Pete

 

[runnach]

Forget ptfe, get some hemp, braid it up to fit leaking joint requirement. Then apply plumbers mate to hemp, then apply to leaking area. Hemp helps to keep the P/mate in place, I have a gate valve joint that is passing where gate fits into valve section, gasket has gone, I'll be using above method, back off nut a few turns, then pack with hemp/pm. Re-tighten, and hopefully no more leak, no draining down required also.........

 

[brightspark]

why drain the lot just shut the valves of on upstairs radiators both sides if its got a header tank shut the coldwater feed to it .if its a a pressurised comby better stiill .slacken the leaking gland off .put a bit of ptfe tape with plumbers paste on tighten up should be ok .open all valves turn water on repressurise if its a ::comby job done

 

[Mig-Phil]

The first thing to do is slacken off the nut and re-tighten. You may have to do it a couple of times but normally it does the trick and it saves having the drain the rad etc.

If that does not work then follow the advice given in the other posts.

Best of luck.

 

[Alfaman]

You could try one of the freezing kits so that you can repair the fault without having to drain-down the system? I used one to replace a leaking motorised valve, and it worked brilliantly

 

[Tobymonster]

All fixed! Had to do replace the pipe below the floorboard in the end. My hand was forced though as the leak tracked along the pipe, onto a cable, finally to end up in junction box for the boiler electrical supply! It took a few days to end up there but having the main circuit breaker constantly tripping on the evening of Christmas Eve with no heating wasn't an option. I was putting back the carpet up as the Mother-in-Law-from Hell came back from Midnight Mass!

Thanks for all the advice, a Happy New Year to all of you.

 

[Weldingartisan]

Plumbers mait is not intended for fixing leaks. It is a flexible putty for fitting brass ware to sanitary ware, WC pans to cast iron or vitrious sockets (before multiquick type connectors), bedding wastes in etc. W/A