darren.a.roberts
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- Thread starter darren.a.roberts
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mike 109444
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Darren will need to know if the gas valve is a 24v or 240v type as this will determine where it can be connected to operate at triggering
normspanners
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are you sure it has a gas solenoid I thought they just had a mechanical gas valve in the trigger head?
madkayaker
Pro sparkey Pro Welder
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There is nothing in there that is a gas solenoid
darren.a.roberts
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Guys,
Thanks for the reply. Gas solenoid came with the kit. Wiring diagram that came with kit suggests connecting 1 wire (brown between contactor (switch in torch) or pcb, and power adjustment switch) and the blue between negative and transformer.
I will check the blurb on the solenoid.....
cheers
Darren
Thanks for the reply. Gas solenoid came with the kit. Wiring diagram that came with kit suggests connecting 1 wire (brown between contactor (switch in torch) or pcb, and power adjustment switch) and the blue between negative and transformer.
I will check the blurb on the solenoid.....
cheers
Darren
madkayaker
Pro sparkey Pro Welder
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What voltage is the solenoid? If its 230v connect it to the input on the transformer as that's only live when relay is energised. If its 24vDc then you need to measure where that is inside the welder when energised
darren.a.roberts
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Oh, and yes originally the gas valve was mechanical and in the torch....
The kit solenoid is 230v........
The kit solenoid is 230v........
normspanners
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good job MK and I were on to you!
darren.a.roberts
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Guys,
Les (Rosepuds) - the guy who sold me the kit responded really quickly (as per reply above).
All working now - works a treat - thanks Les and the other guys who responded - will keep me going a bit longer until I can afford to upgrade to a "proper" machine.
I have a Range Rover Classic so not having a welder isn't really an option....
thanks
Darren
Les (Rosepuds) - the guy who sold me the kit responded really quickly (as per reply above).
All working now - works a treat - thanks Les and the other guys who responded - will keep me going a bit longer until I can afford to upgrade to a "proper" machine.
I have a Range Rover Classic so not having a welder isn't really an option....
thanks
Darren
- Messages
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- Location
- Birmingham
Find where the mains lead is connected and connect one wire from the solenoid to the blue (neutral) connection.
You need to find the wire between the contactor/relay and the transformer that is live when the trigger is pulled, connect one lead of your tester/meter to the blue/neutral and prod around with the other lead to find the switched live and connect the other side of the solenoid to it.
NOTE: MAINS VOLTAGE IS POTENTIALLY LETHAL - BE CAREFUL!
You do not need to connect the earth pin on the solenoid to anything.
You need to find the wire between the contactor/relay and the transformer that is live when the trigger is pulled, connect one lead of your tester/meter to the blue/neutral and prod around with the other lead to find the switched live and connect the other side of the solenoid to it.
NOTE: MAINS VOLTAGE IS POTENTIALLY LETHAL - BE CAREFUL!
You do not need to connect the earth pin on the solenoid to anything.
Mattycoops43
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- Newport, South Wales
Hi there. Can I ask a similar question? I have a Topmig 140DP which I am converting to a gas solenoid because it used to be on gasless and some idiot lost the trigger when I lent it to them. The trigger is now discontinued so it's a new torch, or bypass the valve in the torch and fit a solenoid.
I ordered a 24vAC solenoid before I really looked into this conversion, and I think it may be the wrong voltage. I have just spent an hour trying to find the voltages at various places and got nowhere, and then I realised my multimeter has died, so I need to get one tomorrow.
Anyway, does anyone know these welders enough to tell me if a 24vAC solenoid will be useable? or do I need to go 240ac or dc for the trigger wire?
I looked at making a trigger, but it is such a random shape required it is not really practical. Plus the gas valve is horrendous quality and very rough action, so I have soldered it open permanently.
I can order a different voltage solenoid if needed but it would be easier to find a place for a 24VAC one if possible.
I have removed the tightspot in the gearbox, and soldered up the main torch connection at both ends as it was loose (not crimped properly) so I am hoping I will be able to get this welding ok without spending a fortune.
Thanks for any advice for a newbie and sorry if I should have started a new topic, this just seemed such a similar question.
I ordered a 24vAC solenoid before I really looked into this conversion, and I think it may be the wrong voltage. I have just spent an hour trying to find the voltages at various places and got nowhere, and then I realised my multimeter has died, so I need to get one tomorrow.
Anyway, does anyone know these welders enough to tell me if a 24vAC solenoid will be useable? or do I need to go 240ac or dc for the trigger wire?
I looked at making a trigger, but it is such a random shape required it is not really practical. Plus the gas valve is horrendous quality and very rough action, so I have soldered it open permanently.
I can order a different voltage solenoid if needed but it would be easier to find a place for a 24VAC one if possible.
I have removed the tightspot in the gearbox, and soldered up the main torch connection at both ends as it was loose (not crimped properly) so I am hoping I will be able to get this welding ok without spending a fortune.
Thanks for any advice for a newbie and sorry if I should have started a new topic, this just seemed such a similar question.
Mattycoops43
Member
- Messages
- 119
- Location
- Newport, South Wales
Is that not a DC supply? it also varies from 21-40 something volts with wire speed. Or is that voltage range ok for a solenoid?
Is there a way to use dc current on an AC solenoid? using only one half or something?
Thanks for the reply.
Mattycoops43
Member
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- 119
- Location
- Newport, South Wales
I am sending the 24vAC solenoid back and have ordered a 230VAC one, the seller is sending me a diagram and fitting instructions, he knows the SIP welders and reckons it's the best way to go.
You can use a valve with coils of the following rating 24Vac,48Vac 230Vac you just need to know where they go. See image below
230V can be taken from the relay switched feed to the welding transformer. Red valve below
48V you connect to the output of the welding transformer and use the full winding and do not connect to the center tap. Black valve below
24V again from the output of the welding transformer but from one side to the center tap. Blue valve below
The 48V is how it is also done on my autoplus 150, no one say it won't work because the output voltage changes with power setting it works, also it is on the original TOPMIG 150 diagram I googled and modified.
230V can be taken from the relay switched feed to the welding transformer. Red valve below
48V you connect to the output of the welding transformer and use the full winding and do not connect to the center tap. Black valve below
24V again from the output of the welding transformer but from one side to the center tap. Blue valve below
The 48V is how it is also done on my autoplus 150, no one say it won't work because the output voltage changes with power setting it works, also it is on the original TOPMIG 150 diagram I googled and modified.
