sip 105 turbo

[davieboy]

hi guys just joined this site loads of info on my welder but I have a huge problem and got no clue

when im welding I cant get a continuous bead. its as if I got a pulse welder. every half second it stops and start at the same time everytime

I have changed the liner and the neck even changed the earth clamp just in case. don't want to dump the welder its been great for years.

 

[masleeve]

Welcome
there is lot on the forum about SIP
That sounds like the relay is dropping out
If you want it looked at I am happy to have a look, just PM your number and I will give you a call.

 

[davieboy]

or you could point me in the right direction mate and have a look before I get you all this way for nothing. unless it would be hard to explain then feel free to pop out sometime

 

[mike 109444]

Dave try releasing the wire feed roller but leave the wire inplace. then operate the trigger and look very carefully at the feed roller to see if it is running true. If your problem is that predictable then you could be looking at at mechanical fault. There is a brace mod that a lot of sip owners do that supports the roller shaft/bracket.
And welcome BTW

 

[davieboy]

if I pull the trigger away from the surface and let a load of wire out I doesn't miss a beat only when you start welding it acts up if that helps. if I release the wire roller and operate the trigger the feed roller runs straight and true.

 

[mike 109444]

Setting the tension of the pressure roller can be a bit critical to light and it may slip, to heavy and there's no give ending up with bird nesting. If the roller shaft is bending slightly under the pressure of the pressure roller then you will find it very difficult to get it set just right. Fit the brace as described in the sip section, it's just a bent bit of metal to make up. Other possible issues may be the tip, worn or wrong size!. Feed roller dirty/contaminated with oil or rust. Wrong size groove on roller selected. The sip is known for a poor regulation of voltage to the wire feed motor as it takes it's feed from the same source as the welding voltage. What are your results like with a nice clean fresh bit of steel held by the earth clamp and welded directly on it rather than through the metal of a car or a rusty length of metal ?

 

[davieboy]

fresh steel on steel isn't pretty its all lumps and looks like its on top of the metal and not penetrating. with trigger pulled away from steel it rolls free and steady its when I weld it stutters to the point of being unusable. my mate had the welder for years (a loan) said it was in his garage and the roof was leaking think its damaged something internally but don't know what to look for or how to check

 

[davieboy]

don't know if this helps or not but I was welding steel last weekend and it was useless. on Wednesday I gave aluminium a weld and it was a great welder. went back to steel in Friday and it was useless again. if it was the feed roller being messed up it would have shown up with the aluminium? or am I talking crap

 

[mike 109444]

Well I would have expected the ally to give problems rather than the steel! The steel would normally contaminate the (metal) liner such that when the ally is loaded particles from the steel contaminate the ally weld. Usually it's a Teflon liner over size tip and knurled roller for ally. (not left the over size tip in ?). When welding ally the wire feed is turned up a LOT higher than the steel. So could be a problem with the lower speed setting of motor.

 

[davieboy]

when welding ally I used .8 with a 1.0 nozzle. Speed up full. I have changed nozzle back to.8 for the steel. Was stuttering before using ally and still is. Even changed the wire reel just incase

 

[Jan]

Check all the contacts inside and outside the machine. Especially the earth clamp and cable.

 

[davieboy]

yea thought welding clamp so changed it for a big shiny one. will take other cover off and check while getting someone to weld. had a go last night when I weld and its pulsing the feed wheel stops and starts as well

 

[mike 109444]

As the drive motor goes through a gearbox to reduce the speed if there is a tooth missing from one of the gears you may get that type of result. There is a pic somewhere of a sip gearbox opened up to give you an ideal of what is in it.

 

[davieboy]

but when im not welding and pull the trigger its smooth as if its new? such a confusing machine

 

[julianf]

Isnt this the classic issue with the single transformer?

Feeds fine until it arcs, then the power goes to the arc, and the feed motor slows - so the arc breaks, and then the motor speeds up again.

Itll feed fine when there is no arc, right?


Mine is identical. The documented fix is to add another transformer for the wire feed motor. I planned on doing this, then got sidetracked with a TIG...

 

[davieboy]

yea correct when its not arcing its fine. where do I find the how to?

 

[Sean]

classic SIP problem, fastest cure is a 2nd transformer and a rectifier and a few crimp connectors. My 105 welds really nice on argoshield on thin( <1mm) car stuff.

did you replace the small liner in the swan neck ? perhaps its not current but heat causing the problem, the remains of the old plastic liner gum up the smaller liner. As the plastic heats it swells and becomes sticky.

 

[julianf]

just google "sip transformer mod" - there's loads of ways, some on here, some on other forums

 

[davieboy]

yea changed the swan neck as well still no change. Transformer it is then

 

[davieboy]

any one near me able to help with the mod looks hard to me