Side gate advice

[VanMarco]

Hello,

As I plan to fabricate a side gate for my house (as thieves had the guts to steal used bricks from my backyard two days ago) I would like some advice about how to go about this, as I've never done one before.
The side of my house is like a driveway but not quite, as it's split between me and the neighbour of the adjacent property with a fence in the middle. So i bought some box section (25 mm for the actual gate profiles) and 60mm for the posts (the overall length is just about 175cm total and I would do this in two halves as I have some trouble with a drainage sticking out) hinges and hardware, and I will be putting boards on it.
One post will be directly put into the edge (near my neighbours fence, it's all paved so I assume 450mm would be ok in the ground ? ) and the other one affixed to my house wall. now what I am not sure, as I'm not an ace with measurements, should I weld the hinges FIRST, and then place the posts in place? or I should build the whole thing hoping I dont do a mess? or just start on one side and then do the other part?

Thank you for any advice

 

[cumbriasteve]

The easiest way is to put the posts in and fit the two hinged side pieces of the gates with the adjustments* set midway, put them on and then you can take accurate measurements for the cross sections.

*Hinges should always have adjustment, vertically and horizontally.

 

[Ton-up]

If you have trouble using a tape rule, cut a piece of wood and mark that, or even make your gate as a pattern in old wood and copy it!

 

[cumbriasteve]

Here is one of the methods I used to use, the flat bar is formed to fit the diameter of the adjustable gate eyes that can be bought from all the parts stockists.

The flat bar 'slot' only needs to be 100mm in length and it gives you a lot of adjustment in height and also allows truing up in alignment.

 

[Rig Pig]

I put wooden farm style gates on my drive, the posts went in first then I sat the gates in position on bricks using a car jack and my wife to get everything lined up and level with the adjustment in the middle as Steve says, I then tacked the hinges to the posts, lifted the gates off and finished welding. The gates needed a tweak on the adjustment when fitted.

 

[arther dailey]

depending on height/weight/width of gate and what you are sinking posts into would define what depth you need really.

 

[gaz1]

vanmarco if you want a helping hand just ask as im bradford based sort of bd12 area for me

ive also read your arc welding post and maybe thinking your taking on more than you should do

 

[p0689109]

I would also suggest that the gates are solid in that people cant see through them. Metal gates might look pretty but are no real deterrent as they can be climbed easy. Also I am a great believer in out of sight, out of mind!

 

[Daveville30]

25 box is fairly light.70x30 would look slot nicer.

 

[VanMarco]

Ok, thanks for everything, for today I just prepared the top covers for the posts and welded the weld-on hinges (the post part) on a plate for easier installation, and dave, I am using the section to then hold boards p06 I'm also of the same opinion. I'm from abroad, in my home country it is standard that house gardens are enclosed with high fencing and gates, thats the norm. I find nice that you could have mail delivered onto the door, but to me leaving also the backyard completely exposed is a bit foolish.

Will update with pictures as I will go ahead with it

Thanks!

 

[Kent]

Set the whole thing up on a flat surface level the post tops with the gate top. And measure everything from a level datum when you sink the posts and set them up.
Full adjustment range not. Really required then
Oh allow 100mm under the gate bottom clearance, it's amazing how seemingly level paths rise and you need a bit in case of snow, leaves and debris