Rustproofing

[Bobtail4x4]

My Scimitar GTC is up in the air (ok 2 foot) so I can sort the surface rust on the outriggers and cill bits of the chassis, the main bit is well protected by the oil leak from the rocker covers,
its cleaned up fairly well but I have a choice of fertan rust converter, and Por15 (I have both on the shelf) and then overpaint or stonechip or waxoil?

it normally only goes out in nice weather so no salty roads,
what do we all think??

 

[gaz1]

burdekin posted another option not long ago for stoping rust

 

[slim_boy_fat]

My Scimitar GTC is up in the air (ok 2 foot) so I can sort the surface rust on the outriggers and cill bits of the chassis, the main bit is well protected by the oil leak from the rocker covers,
its cleaned up fairly well but I have a choice of fertan rust converter, and Por15 (I have both on the shelf) and then overpaint or stonechip or waxoil?

it normally only goes out in nice weather so no salty roads,
what do we all think??

Do some research on the POR15, some seem to like it...others not so much.

https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/search/9038728/?q=POR15&o=date

 

[anjum]

Probably not what you want to hear but here's what I do, having gone through the rust converter , zinc spray, red oxide, POR-15, phases etc etc

Clean thoroughly with a wire brush on angle grinder or preferably flap disc (or a sandblaster!!). Little rust or no rust must remain.
Clean off remaining rust using phoskleen B, I wipe it off with panel wipe.
Prime with epoxy primer
Apply Raptor 2 pack
When completely dry apply a good coat of waxoyl type

That should take care of the outside for a little while

For the inner surfaces of the crossmembers you just have to do the best you can to derust, epoxy prime, paint and waxoyl in a similar way.

There may be some new better products but that's what works best at the moment AFAIK, the key is to remove as much rust as possible before epoxy priming.

 

[steveo3002]

i dont like por 15 , its failed on everything i used it on except blasted steel , followed all the steps too

id go with above , mechanical removal best as you can then epoxy

 

[Nick DV]

Rust is a very difficult thing to control once it sets in, and what to use to do that raises many questions and answers.

FWIW, I'm not convinced by any product, but in answer to some of the above:
POR15 - ok but you must make sure that the surface is well prepped, as the smallest lack of adhesion can cause lifting and peeling of the coat in a short amount of time. Having said that, I have seen some good, long lasting results with it.
Waxoyl - not like it was.
Raptor - I like this stuff for bodywork, but the jury is out for underside protection. My concern is that if water gets under it, then it'll peel easily
Epoxy - this is probably the best stuff to use, and as long as prep is good and treat after with a good rust protecting film, then it gives great results.

Once the weather gets better, I'm going to do the underside of my 4x4 and will be using these products https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments/ Decent products, and really helpful staff

 

[Bobtail4x4]

I found 6 full cans and 3 part full cans of waxoil when having a sort out in the garage,
will get some epoxy bought.
then lather everything in waxoil

 

[Burdekin]

Are you going to get good surface prep for paint is the first question, if so 2k epoxy is a good choice. POR15 I will be nice, is a single pack epoxy and is no where near as good as a 2k epoxy, I would never use it again on anything let alone a car.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

I would never use it again on anything let alone a car.

Shame I have a tin sitting on the shelf.

 

[Burdekin]

Shame I have a tin sitting on the shelf.

:-)

 

[anjum]

Use it to paint the shelf.........

I have been impressed with the phoskleen B.

 

[steveo3002]

another thing about por15 is its so hard to use a bit and keep the rest , where epoxy you can mix a bit and store it no problems

 

[slim_boy_fat]

another thing about por15 is its so hard to use a bit and keep the rest , where epoxy you can mix a bit and store it no problems

I used a little out of the tin [can't recall what for now ], and stored it upside down on the shelf. Any skin that forms ought to be on the bottom when next opened. That's the theory anyway....

 

[steveo3002]

yeah i wont be buying it again , can get a huge amount of epoxy for same money

 

[Nick DV]

another thing about por15 is its so hard to use a bit and keep the rest , where epoxy you can mix a bit and store it no problems

With POR15 you should pour as much as you need for the job into another container, reseal the POR tin and chuck whatever is left over in the working container - don't put it back in the POR tin.

 

[steveo3002]

yeah then the resealed tin has gone hard next time you want it

 

[Nick DV]

yeah then the resealed tin has gone hard next time you want it

Nope, it sure ain't!

 

[daedalusminos]

I use citric acid gel, it's slow but really does remove the rust without affecting good metal... especially if agitated with a wire brush.

 

[Barking Mat]

Pulled (90 minute job) the battery tray out of a 20 year old Massey Ferguson 6150 today.

The rustiest part of our s/h tractor.

Removed as much rust mechanically as poss, degreased, 20% solution of phosphoric acid mixed with water.

Left to dry, rinsed off, blew it down, first coat of paints on in the workshop, and it's drying.

We'll see...