- Thread starter Dunny
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Chris Stevens
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Rust/convertor primer is the best possible to product to use for this job, and as the Dinitrol one is epoxy based and impervious to water, its a very good choice.
M
Member 66061
Guest
Thats what i used, except black. I just used waxoyl as a generic term, like hoover or biro.
I just went to the TMS in town and got it.
Dont know how it compares to actual brand name waxoyl, but it still looks good on my trailer chassis.
I done things properly when i done the chassis though. I pressure washed it with the dirtblaster rotating nozzle, let it dry, then chipped any stubborn flakes. I put several coats of thinned tetroseal on (I used turps substitute to thin it just cos i had some in my shed) letting it dry to tacky touch between. Jobs still a good'un.
Im happy with the results, but Dintrol has a good reputation and might have been better.
I have also used stuff called Jenolite (also from TMS) to treat small areas of rust.
Tetrosyl Waxoil already ordered so I will be using that to inject into the frame in order to slow any rust down. I suppose I could get it dipped in rust killer as long as it wont interfere with the small areas of chemical metal that I have used to fill in pinholes etc.
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brightspark
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thin it and put it in warm it will go everywhere then solidify
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Chris Stevens
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Wax isnt likely to slow down internal rot a great deal. If you want the best possible chance of preventing more problems a rust converter/primer injected into the frame tubes is the product to use. Almost all the cheap DIY market wax rust preventers, are almost all solvent, so while you get a little bit of protection in the lower parts of the frame, the areas higher up wont get much coverage at all.
Gareth J
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I disagree. Coating a surface with wax seals it from moisture. When I wipe my anvil or drill press table with a waxoyl type product it visibly seals it and stops its rusting - until I wear or wipe it off. A thin layer distributed inside a tube will be much more durable than my quick wipe over and provide a good barrier, non?
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Chris Stevens
Guest
Possibly with a good quality specific cavity wax, but not with cheap rubbish aimed at the DIY market. Why not use the very best product for the job though which is a rust converter primer, which converts the upper layer of rust into an inert coating, and then seals it with epoxy?
Using wax to prevent tools rusting in a damp workshop is a good idea, but of course is a completely different application to the inside of a frame tube which is already badly corroded internally.
decca
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Dinitrol ML is very good. Liquid and applied with Shultz gun with a tube attachment.
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Chris Stevens
Guest
https://dinitrol.co.uk/FAQs/RustConverters.aspx Why not just use the best possible product for the job? I would suggest RC900 is probably very hard to beat.
Only because I have a gallon of phosphoric on hand whereas Dinitrol is about £25 for 400ml.
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All done. Used Neutrarust poured into a large syringe connected to tubes of reducing sizes. Messy job as it comes out of different parts of the frame but I think I have got decent coverage. Don't think it will be easy getting wax oil in though. I may not bother now. A bit more cleaning up and it's off for powder coating.
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brightspark
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what happens when they heat it up at the coaters
So I have just bought this item off ebay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/311441262140
in the hope that I can cut the tube and join a tube with a thinner diamater to inject the waxoil (if that is what I choose to do).
The drain holes are actually only about 3-4 mm and I had to shave the tube from out of the middle of a de-icer bottle to get the rust converter in!!
I am hoping I can find some thing rigid tube next.....it may not work but its cheap enough to give it a go!!
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/311441262140
in the hope that I can cut the tube and join a tube with a thinner diamater to inject the waxoil (if that is what I choose to do).
The drain holes are actually only about 3-4 mm and I had to shave the tube from out of the middle of a de-icer bottle to get the rust converter in!!
I am hoping I can find some thing rigid tube next.....it may not work but its cheap enough to give it a go!!
D
Gareth J
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- North Cornwall
That thing also injects a lot of air, to somewhat "atomise" the waxoil on injection.
I'd try to inject just liquid. Warm the wax, warm the frame, thin the wax until it looks thin enough to flow well and syringe/funnel it in.
100cc syringes are cheap enough. Or if you're keen for a project you could create an air powered injector out of a brake bleed cannister or even an old coke bottle.
If you inject it with air, the wax will just mound up at the entrance and won't flow everywhere as the cooling airflow will solidify it unless you keep heating the frame
I'd try to inject just liquid. Warm the wax, warm the frame, thin the wax until it looks thin enough to flow well and syringe/funnel it in.
100cc syringes are cheap enough. Or if you're keen for a project you could create an air powered injector out of a brake bleed cannister or even an old coke bottle.
If you inject it with air, the wax will just mound up at the entrance and won't flow everywhere as the cooling airflow will solidify it unless you keep heating the frame
