Rust Killer.

[Rubber Duck]

I'm in the proccess of tidying up my Range Rover (1990), overall it's in pretty good shape.

The only rotten bit is one of the door pillars which I will need to patch up, the rest is just surface rust which can be scraped away.

I have done a search on the net and come up with a couple of names (Jenolite, Waxoil), just wondered if anyone can suggest anymore?

Thanks

RD

 

[chunkolini]

I have used this stuff with great success
http://www.bilthamber.com/deoxc.html
Water soluble, soak the offending parts in it overnight and job done, they also make a gel version for upright surfaces, I found that kitchen towels soaked in it and covered in cling film do a great job.
Since buying a 5kg tub of the stuff some spoilsport on this site pointed out that it is just citric acid. Might be worth sourcing some of that.

Chunko'.

 

[eddie49]

Vinegar works too. Just 30p a bottle, best if parts are soaked in it for a day or two, then wash off and dry and protect immediately.

 

[Arsonista]

Vinegar works too. Just 30p a bottle, best if parts are soaked in it for a day or two, then wash off and dry and protect immediately.

Is this for real?. Does it work?. How?.

 

[DarrenUK]

Yes it works, and very well too.

Another one is to mix builders cement cleaner with wall paper paste to make a gel, apply past to rust areas and cover with cling film to stop it drying out.

The main ingredient is Hydrochloric acid usually at a 16% or so concentration. So not only do you get a whole gallon of the stuff for around £20 it's also 3 times stronger than leading rust removing products at extortionate prices.

It's the same main active ingredient in most of the products.

If you want to weaken the mixture for any reason (you don't have to) always add acid to water, NEVER the other way around !!

But vinegar does work too, just take a little longer

 

[rtcosic]

Since buying a 5kg tub of the stuff some spoilsport on this site pointed out that it is just citric acid. Might be worth sourcing some of that.

No it isn't. I thought that so bought some citric acid and found it much more aggressive. Like all acid 'pickles' it left the surface very active, so once you washed it off you are left with a lot of 'flash' surface rust no matter how quickly you dry it off. The Bilthamber stuff must have some inhibitor in there too - it does work well though.

I do prefer citric acid over hydrochloric acid as a pickle though.

 

[graffian]

I haven't yet tried Citric acid, am a fan of phosphoric acid, hydrochloric etches the surface to much phosphoric doesn't seem to etch the surface, past etching it just right, so stuff can be left in a weak concentration for ages. It's the rust remover/etcher supplied with tank sealer.

I will have to remember wall paper paste, I was going to try all the sticky stuff in the kitchen.

 

[W4yne]

Rust Inhibitors

Try here, http://www.frost.co.uk/default.asp

They seem to stock most of the major bodywork rust inhibitors, "Dinitol, POR-15, Eastwood plus others"

I'm in the proccess of tidying up my Range Rover (1990), overall it's in pretty good shape.

The only rotten bit is one of the door pillars which I will need to patch up, the rest is just surface rust which can be scraped away.

I have done a search on the net and come up with a couple of names (Jenolite, Waxoil), just wondered if anyone can suggest anymore?

Thanks

RD

 

[v8er6.6]

Never tried it but I`ve heard good things about Oxalic Acid.
Supposed to just react with the rust and not the good metal.
Anyone ever tried it ?
Was thinking of getting some myself to try.

 

[W4yne]

Is this for real?. Does it work?. How?.

Leave a sound piece of steel in vinigar for long enough and it will eat it's way through the steel. "It's an acid when all said and done". Very good applied to wasp stings as well as the vinigar neutralize's the sting.

 

[outofthefire]

I dont know about brick acid/cleaner being good for curing rust, every time i've used it to clean old cement and concrete off shovels or trowels they been a pig for rusting at every opportunity even if its been thoroughly washed off.

 

[graffian]

Once you have cleaned the metal you need to protect it.

 

[brightspark]

rust on iron or steel is formed by a reaction of oxygen and air moisture .weather u clean it of with acids or shotblast rust will form .best coat with paint asp

 

[Chipper]

Some of these things are for dunking, poss not much use for on-car repairs... have used Deox gel where things couldn't be immersed. Works good.

I found citric excellent. Rarely any flash rusting, and none if parts were dried after their soak.
Millscale wipes off - thanks Chunko, you mentioned that on here one time. Left a load of plate with a nice grey non-reactive surface.
Tried citric after someone on here said Deox was the same.

Vinegor was crap for me to be honest. It did work, eventually, after days, but seriously slow vs citric. And citric doesn't reek either.

Reckon citric's cheaper in the long run too. though both would be dirt cheap anyway.

Jenolite and similar are basicaly phosphoric acid (I believe)

 

[vegplot]

I haven't yet tried Citric acid, am a fan of phosphoric acid, hydrochloric etches the surface to much phosphoric doesn't seem to etch the surface, past etching it just right, so stuff can be left in a weak concentration for ages. It's the rust remover/etcher supplied with tank sealer.

I will have to remember wall paper paste, I was going to try all the sticky stuff in the kitchen.

See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phosphoric_acid#Rust_removal for more information.