Rewiring a drill

[Shedendman]

Not sure if this is ok here or in the leccy section,so try here 1st
Right,i've been given an 240v electric drill, this one in fact


As you see the trigger has been removed,asked to why this was all i got back was "dunno,it got new brushes",,yep,thats what i thought
As you can see the blue wire will need some attention,i'll address that later
Heres the trigger


Totally lost at that wiring diagram


Yes you've guessed it,how would i wire this back up,just like to see if its working,if it does, bonus,if not i'll bin it
Cheers chaps

 

[gaz1]

what you may find its a trigger problem with them being in it

alot of the new drills have trigger issues where there failing or burning out

I have same problem with a drill of mine the only thing wrong with it is the trigger and its an import to get it going again

 

[skotl]

The black box is a noise suppression capacitor, and is probably across the in/out contacts of the switch.

Do you have a multimeter so you can test the contacts of the switch? If not I'd just wire it across these contacts and give it a try. Worst case is you short it and blow the fuse / trip the MCB.

That said I presume he removed the switch because it's faulty so still worth testing it first to save yourself the frustration.

Edit: wait one... found the wiring manual for the switch: COPAL - SGEL106CVR Speed Controllable Trigger Switches for AC Power With Variable Speed Control (EN) - CAD PDF Catalogs (partcommunity.com)

Here you go. Power to 1 & 2, motor on M1 and M2

 

[Agroshield]

Here you go. Power to 1 & 2, motor on M1 and M2
View attachment 287657

Bravo. Exploded diagram for drill here if required: https://www.metabo-hpt.com/docs/default-source/default-document-library/dv20vb2_bd.pdf

If he wanted to test the drill itself without a (main or changeover) switch at all, could you confirm how it has to be wired. From above, it looks like live goes into one stator coil and then the other end of that coil goes to one brush. Similarly for neutral: into the other coil and then from that coil to the other brush.

 

[Shedendman]

The black box is a noise suppression capacitor, and is probably across the in/out contacts of the switch.

Do you have a multimeter so you can test the contacts of the switch? If not I'd just wire it across these contacts and give it a try. Worst case is you short it and blow the fuse / trip the MCB.

That said I presume he removed the switch because it's faulty so still worth testing it first to save yourself the frustration.

Edit: wait one... found the wiring manual for the switch: COPAL - SGEL106CVR Speed Controllable Trigger Switches for AC Power With Variable Speed Control (EN) - CAD PDF Catalogs (partcommunity.com)

Here you go. Power to 1 & 2, motor on M1 and M2
View attachment 287657

Thats great thank you,but ,erm erm erm er,what colour wire goes where,remember this is your 99yo grandad you're talking to now
I do have a multimeter yes,how do i test the contacts
So power in 1(red?) 2(blue?) what colour wires for M1 and M2?
As you can see leccy stuff like this is all fog to me

 

[Shedendman]

what you may find its a trigger problem with them being in it

alot of the new drills have trigger issues where there failing or burning out

I have same problem with a drill of mine the only thing wrong with it is the trigger and its an import to get it going again

This drill i would say is on the old side

 

[skotl]

Thats great thank you,but ,erm erm erm er,what colour wire goes where,remember this is your 99yo grandad you're talking to now
I do have a multimeter yes,how do i test the contacts
So power in 1(red?) 2(blue?) what colour wires for M1 and M2?
As you can see leccy stuff like this is all fog to me

Ahhh.... well as it's AC it doesn't really matter what way round the cables are.

Can you find the incoming cabling from the mains lead? I'd expect that to be brown and blue (or black and red if it's very old) - connect these to terminals 1 & 2 (either way - don't matter).

Then try to find the wires heading to the motor - these go to M1 and M2. If the drill goes the wrong direction if the switch is set to forward, then reverse the connections to M1 and M2.

Good luck, grandad!

 

[skotl]

By the way.... new drills aren't expensive...

 

[Shedendman]

Ahhh.... well as it's AC it doesn't really matter what way round the cables are.

Can you find the incoming cabling from the mains lead? I'd expect that to be brown and blue (or black and red if it's very old) - connect these to terminals 1 & 2 (either way - don't matter).

Then try to find the wires heading to the motor - these go to M1 and M2. If the drill goes the wrong direction if the switch is set to forward, then reverse the connections to M1 and M2.

Good luck, grandad!

Mains lead brown(edit red) into 1 and blue into 2 got that
so the wires for M1 and M2 would they be the ones from the brush holders ie blue or white and the brown or grey? or the red and black fixed elsewhere?

 

[Shedendman]

By the way.... new drills aren't expensive...

Yes,but old ones that get new life are nothing

 

[skotl]

Mains lead brown(edit red) into 1 and blue into 2 got that
so the wires for M1 and M2 would they be the ones from the brush holders ie blue or white and the brown or grey? or the red and black fixed elsewhere?

Ummmm.... good question. Yes to the brushes, but I was assuming there would just be two wires. Are they wired in series - i.e. cable to first brush, brushes tied together with second cable, third cable out of other brush?

 

[Shedendman]

Ummmm.... good question. Yes to the brushes, but I was assuming there would just be two wires. Are they wired in series - i.e. cable to first brush, brushes tied together with second cable, third cable out of other brush?

Your guess to that is as good as mine,do the photos not give any clues,willing to take more if that helps