Retrofit insulation for my ‘stables’ workshop

[Guineafowl]

Plan is to slot some sort of insulation behind the OSB inner lining. Cladding is painted shiplap. If I do this, then fill in the missing OSB all the way up, will I need to add vents on the outside, top and bottom, between each pair of studs?

Also, I’d like to insulate and board the ceiling, but the roof trusses are quite a way apart, 1.2m centres (I think; will check). Should I add some counterbattens to stop the OSB sagging?

 

[gaz1]

before i answer about your roof area can you take some photos of it of your trusses area

the joint at the base of your roof and also showing the trusses in a better light

as to judge what is best

as goes for your wall just use rockwool but make sure you buy the right stuff but you also need to know what your 3x2s are as well care to measure them and say

 

[Guineafowl]

Studs are 95x45mm and about 610mm apart (varies a bit).

Ok, going left to right across the bit of roof in the second pic above:

Outside.


Inside. Trusses at 1220mm centres. This is the wood shop part, where I might not board out the ceiling. The extra height is useful for turning long pieces of wood. I’ll just block up the eaves. Same design everywhere, though.


Big overhang on the inside of the U-shaped stable block, so the horses could hang their heads over the door and not get wet. At some point, I’ll move the wall all the way out to the right.

 

[gaz1]

ok then your boarded that helps alot

so you might as well use the cold roof method

external pieces want a soffit fitted and an air trim piece as well

for the ceiling you wont be storing up in it

so just insulate it out with normal insulation for best method buy 5" or just use 4" but 6 is better at edges its best to fit 4" pieces so it allows air to go up into the roof void

as goes for boarding its up to you either osb 11mm and paint it or use plastic cladding

https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/workshop-build.83872/page-6#post-1244886

or plastic cladding

Garage / workshop conversion

Sorry I felt terrible the other day so I didn't get a chance to look at prices. Anyway for example if I was to use plastic TG cladding it would be as follows. 16x TG 5000x300 panels 6x J trim 1x H section panel joint 1 x Angle Total £205.50 OSB 9mm x1200 x 2400 is £20.50 at Wickes I would...

www.mig-welding.co.uk

 

[500e]

Whatever, you want to get it done ASAP or dont use the wine rack this year

 

[gaz1]

as goes for your wall only one wall is worth it to be honest unless you move that wall asap which would be best to do asap

for the one wall add lengths to get the 4" insulation and just board over them

if i was moving that wall out id be doing it in chunks of a wall as one

however to a degree id probably leave it and build a new wall up and move the noisey dust collector into it

you have good length so you could add 2 bays to it one for the dust collection and the other part for something else

i can see a couple of tools could go into that outside part really easily

 

[Guineafowl]

Thanks for the advice. I’m still not sure on the following, unless I missed the answer:

- For boarding out the ceiling, is 11mm OSB going to span the 1.2m gap between trusses?
- No need to ventilate the cladding, if it goes cladding -> air gap -> insulation -> OSB? I might end up just stuffing glass wool between OSB and cladding, so the wool might bridge the gap between them. Would that be ok?

 

[gaz1]

if you want you could half the gap between the trusses by putting up a side beam between the trusess and then add a length inbetween them
use of an i beam to half the distance is worth it as well

then its 600mm between the trusses

for cost to cost either using osb board or the lighter plastic cladding dont forget the cladding comes in 5m lengths

then theres no painting of the osb boards

no the air gap is above the insulation as your only cladding the ceiling beams

so it would be screw up the cladding and then fit insulation straight on top of the cladding

i know you can make your own I joists if you want to span from one to the other

 

[Guineafowl]

lighter plastic cladding

Ta, might look into that, as I hate painting. Any recommendations?

no the air gap is above the insulation as your only cladding the ceiling beams

Yep, I meant in the walls - would you stuff wool between the OSB and shiplap?

 

[RWD3M]

This is a very similar construction method to my old workshop which I boarded out but didn't insulate as it was pre-fabricated (by a stable manufacturer!) and had no vapour barrier, obviously.

My new workshop however, whilst a similar construction method (a little beefier), does have a vapour barrier as I built it myself, and is insulated. 100mm rockwool everywhere with a bit of kingspan here and there where required (doors and gable ends).

So in short, I wouldn't put rockwool (or similar) without a vapour barrier which might be impractical in your instance, but just boarding it out will help a lot.

 

[gaz1]

theres rockwool slabs used that dosnt soak up the water as its waterproof so can be used where walls dont have a membraine already installed

knauf 32 and 37 is waterproof

soffit cladding already shown via the links above its 300mm wide by 5m lengths

in not so sure 1.2m of insulation sat on top of cladding if it would stay up its light weight and strong enough 600mm yes its strong enough then to be used
you would have the same issue even with osb board 11mm

it depends on what your going to do with the ceiling part its either fit your insulation against the roof boarding itself or create a lower ceiling part which is the cold roof method used in houses

 

[Guineafowl]

Yes, prefab, proper stables - this used to be a commercial livery yard.

As you can see, the OSB only went up halfway originally, so some of those cavities are already stuffed full with hay and bedding! I also had to repair a lot of damage where the blasted horses had booted or cribbed/chewed the OSB.

Might just board out the walls as suggested, but insulate the ceiling cold roof-style in the metal room, as I don’t need the headroom.

Woodworking bit doesn’t need the insulation so much - I find I’m moving about a lot more, running pieces over the machines. What I really hate is shivering while trying to measure stuff with micrometers in the metalwork bit.

 

[premmington]

Did "yard cats" workshop "sleeping box" with white triple layer cardboard and an off cut of 100mm kingspan today.

Had done floor already with - three layers of tin foil foil faced - sponge van lining stuff (3x10mm)

(reduced air volume in box with big slab of kingspan for "loft insulation - so cats body heat can heat up less air to higher temp in "day box")