Retrofit Baxi IFOS sensor possible?

[pawsnizzy]

A question to our heating people Is it possible/practical to install one of these in an existing 830 combi?

Baxi In Flue Outdoor Sensor (IFOS) | Baxi

The Baxi IFOS provides an easy and cost effective way to comply with the requirements of Boiler Plus when combined with a timer and temperature control. Saving energy and reducing carbon emissions, the IFOS can also provide additional SAP benefits for new build developments. Find out more online.

www.baxi.co.uk

Electrically, it's trivial, but can one be fitted easily? The flue goes straight back through the wall it's mounted on - no more that 2 feet total

Thanks for any insights

Dave

 

[hunter27]

Not fitted many Baxi's recently but if the sensor wire can be threaded through from the outside, it may (probably will) turn the bend in the flue elbow above the boiler enough to allow you to pull it into the boiler casing. It does require you to open the inner boiler casing but using a bit of common sense when refitting it to ensure the seal is good and you should be okay although Baxi do say it must be fitted at time of installation.

 

[pawsnizzy]

Not fitted many Baxi's recently but if the sensor wire can be threaded through from the outside, it may (probably will) turn the bend in the flue elbow above the boiler enough to allow you to pull it into the boiler casing. It does require you to open the inner boiler casing but using a bit of common sense when refitting it to ensure the seal is good and you should be okay although Baxi do say it must be fitted at time of installation.

Thanks hunter - the lead is supposed to in between the inner and outer of the coaxial flue. I couldn't find any statement from Baxi myself

 

[Stuartg1]

Yes its possible. But why do you want to fit 1? They cause no end of issues with flow temperature(coldish rads). Only fit hive nowadays

 

[hunter27]

Thanks hunter - the lead is supposed to in between the inner and outer of the coaxial flue. I couldn't find any statement from Baxi myself

Look in the product literature on the link you posted above, it has the installation instructions in a PDF.

 

[pawsnizzy]

Look in the product literature on the link you posted above, it has the installation instructions in a PDF.

I've got all the installation instructions - I didn't see any statement that they must be fitted during install

 

[pawsnizzy]

Yes its possible. But why do you want to fit 1? They cause no end of issues with flow temperature(coldish rads). Only fit hive nowadays

I just though the (correctly implemented) weather compensation would be good - I do have Hive myself, so I probably won't bother then

 

[hunter27]

I've got all the installation instructions - I didn't see any statement that they must be fitted during install

Section 4 number 11. I don't think it really matters but would be easier when installing.

 

[Stuartg1]

I just though the (correctly implemented) weather compensation would be good - I do have Hive myself, so I probably won't bother then

All ifos does is reduce flow temperature based on outside temperature. In other words your rads won't be warm enough to heat your house unless it's very cold out!!!

 

[pawsnizzy]

All ifos does is reduce flow temperature based on outside temperature. In other words your rads won't be warm enough to heat your house unless it's very cold out!!!

Doesn't that suggest the wrong curve selected? (genuine question) Sounds like the firmware is badly implemented (cr*p!)

 

[Stuartg1]

If I remember rightly baxi say there are 5 curves... you can only access 4.
The 'biggest" curve limits flow temperature to the point where the boiler runs constantly (albeit modulated down) to try and heat the house to an acceptable temperature (say 19°). Oversized rads and pipework make no difference. This was on a spring day so tbh heating was needed, however rads were not exactly hot..
Give 1 a try, they're cheap enough.... I guarantee you'll take it out(unfortunately I've binned all the 1s I've removed otherwise you could have had 1)

 

[pawsnizzy]

If I remember rightly baxi say there are 5 curves... you can only access 4.
The 'biggest" curve limits flow temperature to the point where the boiler runs constantly (albeit modulated down) to try and heat the house to an acceptable temperature (say 19°). Oversized rads and pipework make no difference. This was on a spring day so tbh heating was needed, however rads were not exactly hot..
Give 1 a try, they're cheap enough.... I guarantee you'll take it out(unfortunately I've binned all the 1s I've removed otherwise you could have had 1)

I'll pretty much guarantee that they're a 10k@20deg NTC thermistor, and I've got loads of them - I don't think I'm going to bother now though

 

[HughF]

If I remember rightly baxi say there are 5 curves... you can only access 4.
The 'biggest" curve limits flow temperature to the point where the boiler runs constantly (albeit modulated down) to try and heat the house to an acceptable temperature (say 19°). Oversized rads and pipework make no difference. This was on a spring day so tbh heating was needed, however rads were not exactly hot..
Give 1 a try, they're cheap enough.... I guarantee you'll take it out(unfortunately I've binned all the 1s I've removed otherwise you could have had 1)

All ifos does is reduce flow temperature based on outside temperature. In other words your rads won't be warm enough to heat your house unless it's very cold out!!!

@pawsnizzy ignore the FUD from @Stuartg1 here, modulating controls are far superior to your non-smart hive with its on/off control. Get the flow temps setup correctly and you’ll have a warm house with a reduced gas bill and longer service life from your boiler through a reduction in short cycling.

Have you done a heatloss calculation for your property yet?

 

[pawsnizzy]

@pawsnizzy ignore the FUD from @Stuartg1 here, modulating controls are far superior to your non-smart hive with its on/off control. Get the flow temps setup correctly and you’ll have a warm house with a reduced gas bill and longer service life from your boiler through a reduction in short cycling.

Have you done a heatloss calculation for your property yet?

Hugh,
I realise that modulating controls are superior, but I was being given the impression that it had been badly implemented in this case (maybe/maybe not) - The last heatloss calculation I did for my property was a long time ago when I had to design a house in my first OU course

Thanks for your input

 

[HughF]

Hugh,
I realise that modulating controls are superior, but I was being given the impression that it had been badly implemented in this case (maybe/maybe not) - The last heatloss calculation I did for my property was a long time ago when I had to design a house in my first OU course

Thanks for your input

Fit it and try it. You just need to manage expectations that the rads won’t be scalding hot all the time - because that’s how WC works.

I’d definitely advise binning off your hive though - useless things.

If you want a smart thermostat that’s actually useful then nest supports opentherm and the tado can be programmed with various protocols as well as opentherm. But with a property setup WC curve you shouldn’t need a stat. Just turn the heating on in October and off in April.

 

[Stuartg1]

Fit it and try it. You just need to manage expectations that the rads won’t be scalding hot all the time - because that’s how WC works.

I’d definitely advise binning off your hive though - useless things.

If you want a smart thermostat that’s actually useful then nest supports opentherm and the tado can be programmed with various protocols as well as opentherm. But with a property setup WC curve you shouldn’t need a stat. Just turn the heating on in October and off in April.

 

[HughF]

I could do exactly the same to your apparent refusal to understand how WC works...