removing rear wheels on combo van

[brightspark]

went to remove the wheels to check pads and disks . jacked it up removed studs squirted the centres with duck oil went to tap it off . no chance was rusted on to the hub got a 4x4 post and put it behind the wheel sat on a brick to hold it up on the back of rim . a few good belts with a 10 lb hammer and no chance . ended up using a decent 3 legged puller on the centre and the legs through the holes round the wheel . wound it up and hit with a hammer no chance wound up again then hit from behind with wood and hammer and such a crack went round the other side and the wheel was a meter away from van had to do same with other side .a good clean up of wheel and hub with emery cloth and some copperslip that wont happen again just have the disks and pads to do now .easy enough . famous last words. the wheels are as rusty as hell probs take them off and sandblast them in cabinet cant be bothered to do them setting up the larger gear outside

 

[gaz1]

the poor drums will be the same as the tyres

done often on transit just with a sledge hammer no choice sometimes there solid when you want them removed

 

[armalites]

Imagine if you'd been sat on the side of the motorway with a puncture in the rain, far better to find they were stuck when you planned to take them off anyway

 

[bricol]

So far, mine have come loose by loosening the nuts/bolts a turn or two, then either dropping the clutch in gear a few times, or yanking the hand brake, depending driven axle or not. Torque reaction breaks the corrosion grip, the only just loose fasteners stops them falling off.

 

[postie jon]

i normally have to use a large post and just whack them from behind as you did.

 

[p0689109]

Loosen and drive back and forth a couple of times, preferably turning should work.

 

[daleyd]

Don’t kwik for offer a free brake check??

 

[p0689109]

I would not trust them to touch any of my vehicles free or not!

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Don’t kwik for offer a free brake check??

They do the look at the fronts and tell you that you need new brakes and discs if they are half way worn.

If they can they will look through the inspection hole at the rear of the drums, then tell you that you need new shoes. Then they had an extra £50 as they had to take the vehicle to a specialist as the wheels are stuck on. Then get embarrassed when asked for details of said specialist.

 

[normspanners]

Constant battle every day on cars I havnt worked on,
I had one, a new car with worn rear tyres the wheels were that stuck I had slackened the bolts off , and tried all kinds nothing would free them, even sledge hammer and a piece of oak, the wheels were going to give before the centre, in the end with the wheels slackend I did a handbrake turn, still solid, ended up doing 3 more HBT 's 2one way 1 the other then heard the clunk and they were free.
copper slip now on the studs and disc face on every car and never have a problem.
I did a merc 7.5 ton and that was the same you could have driven to london with no wheel nuts on!!! had to do the same, about 7 handbrake turns. Just braking did nothing and it was bouncing as trucks do when you handbrake them.

 

[8ob]

copper slip now on the studs and disc face on every car and never have a problem.
I did a merc 7.5 ton and that was the same you could have driven to london with no wheel nuts on!!! had to do the same, about 7 handbrake turns. Just braking did nothing and it was bouncing as trucks do when you handbrake them.

Not quite but thats how I get the truck rims free of the hubs. Slacken all the wheel nuts off, just take them back so they make contact with the rims and drive around the block making sure you catch a few kerbs on the way . Never fails.

Bob

 

[daleyd]

I would not trust them to touch any of my vehicles free or not!

I wouldn’t suggest having any work done, just a tongue in cheek suggestion at getting the wheels off with mimal effort

 

[normspanners]

Not quite but thats how I get the truck rims free of the hubs. Slacken all the wheel nuts off, just take them back so they make contact with the rims and drive around the block making sure you catch a few kerbs on the way . Never fails.

WELL Bob---- it failed for me, I tried it jacked up, reving it to 70 mph and locking the wheels, notyhing then with a two ton pump on the back and drove about 10mls !! they where rusted on SOLID !! -----but they have the spring cones as well and flat nuts so thought oh they should slacken easy, I was not joking about driving to london 250 mls I think it would have done it, with no nuts!
I had tried 16 lb S/H 'flat side' on the rims direct and they where starting to fold in !
Doing the HBT 's , I really had to throw it in, back wheels locked and it bouncing,-------- it left some impressive black marks on the industrial estate to be fair !
A little copper slip and the next time NO problems !

 

[brightspark]

loosened the front ones off with puller ok and cleaned up put anti seize on and refitted took the back ones off and blasted them in the cabinet rather than the larger one outside .the comps 28 cfm using a 3mm jet using norty sand it didn't take long at all and they came up ok .got them etch primed and painted up ok black metal paint by brush finish good .enough the pressurised pot works well and no problems with any water getting to the pot when using the secondary tank on the end of the line

 

[p0689109]

This is the problem of modern vehicles using the centre of the rim to ensure the wheel sits central. But in the old days with the nuts or bolts being used with the countersunk acting as the guide, as long as they were put on and screwed in as equally as possible, the problem never arose.