removing a radiator

[BrokenBiker]

and put plenty of dust sheets down just in case

have plenty of those. Most stuff she has bough has come wrapped I massive polythene sheets.

most of the messy stuff is done now, until I start the loft...

 

[Kayos]

I'd just drop the pressure, drain the drop the rad is on, stick a tub underneath and chop the pipes under the floor, stick some caps on and have a beer.

It's only water and as long as you don't do anything stupid (like cut the wrong pipe) you will be fine

 

[brightspark]

i would just shut the valves off rad pack under the pipes with a load of rags cut the pipes live and cap with quickfit stop end s job done but im hardly likely to sugest anyone doing it on here

 

[BrokenBiker]

best measure the pipes, make sure I get right caps for them.

 

[DrDeAtH]

Why not just freeze the pipes where you want to cut off under the floor. Saves draining the whole system down. Then remove the rad and pipes at your leisure. Freeze spray last for approx 15mins. To cut off and compression stop end each pipe will take 2 mins tops.

 

[BrokenBiker]

for the same reason I am not sweating pre soldered caps on, this is the first time I have dealt with any sort of plumbing aprt from fitting washig machines so want to keep the chances of a mishap minimal. Plus I have plenty of time to do it. House is empty and she isn't moving in for at least 3 months

 

[steviec_lj]

will have a good look first before deciding. There is a thermostatic valve on input side of rad, and a normal valve on output side, with a drain point too on output.

as it has valves surely I can just cap the pipes off and it would act the same as if the valves were shut off

Don't count on it!

The rad wont be series, as it has the thermostatic valve.

In which case, id consider finding the easiest out-of-site part of the pipework, crimping the pipe, some distance from the end, then cutting further away from the crimp (where the pipe is still perfectly round) and then fitting a compression stop.

This way you dont have to drain down at all. The crimp wont be fully water tight, but im sure anyone on this forum would have tooling to make a pipe flat enough to reduce the flow to such a meagre drip that fitting a compression fitting downstream would be easy enough.

I have no doubt at all that this is not the 'correct' way to do things! : )

I wouldn't count on this either! When we moved in to the resnted house we're in now, it looked like a good heating system, well set up too. Upstairs thermostat and one down stairs too. Thermostatic valves on all but the kitchen and bathroom radiators.

Turned out to be a single pipe system, running from a dual coil cylinder in the airing cupboard that was absolutely s**t after ite had fed into the first radiator in the kitchen, under the worktop. All the piping downstairs had been run through the concrete floors, taking every ounce of heat from the pipes as soon as they entered the floor.

Pipes everywhere, some were redundant, others had been branched from in multiple places.

A new heating system under the warmfront grant sorted all of that out, only after they had discovered that the feed into the hot water/heat store was cut down the length of the pipe, squashed and pushed into a "street" elbow then covered in sparky tape.

ASSUME everything is going to be wrong.

 

[julianf]

Next door's toilet used to come onto our yard through a bit of drain pipe, that then went into some clay.
How do you seal them? Wrap a plastic bag around them, and cover up with some earth...

Water board sorted it in the end, but had to start muttering legal stuff (id have done it myself quicker, but then responsibility for the stretch changes until the end of time)

Cowboy plumbers.