recovery point strength advice.

[chuk]

hey guys im think of using these http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Heav...tegoryZ33653QQihZ007QQitemZ170113572655QQrdZ1 with shackles thu them as recover points on my suzuki front and back bumpers. Trouble is no one in this country makes and sells them and i dont think i would be able to make them for the money i could get some to do them for me.

i have no doubt the piece its self is strong enough to with stand the forces involved in recovery but would 150mm or weld?

dont hold me to this or shoot me down but from what i can see is over in america they mainly rock crawl so recovery is mostly the weight of the truck on its own. However over here its mud mud and more Mud and when your up to your axles in mud the forces are alot greater @least double/tripple.

Maybe if the pieces were long enough to go through the rear xmemeber and welded onto a spreeder plate with was welded on the back of the cross member and also welded on the front where it come thru the box section bumper/rear crossmember.

 

[Lippyp]

You can buy swivel recovery points from, most of the usual land rover people, any recovery points should be very firmly bolted or welded to the chassis, I'd only attache it to a cross member if you know its in good condition as I have seen them ripped out before. Best place is bolted or welded to the main chassis members or a custom solid bumper.

 

[Justme]

Think lorry recovery to find suitable bits. Also military spec landrover / bedfrd / recovery bits. Also think agricultural bits as a towing eye would make a great one. An local metal / machine shop should be able to know you some out cheap. failing that ask a member on here that has a gas / plasma cutter to do some but postage will hurt.

Justme

 

[Hitch]

I have just made some for someone here, Luke.
Formed from 20mm round bar.
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=2235&page=3

 

[chuk]

Thanks for the reply guys.

Arh thats what they were for, im probley wrong but i dont think id trust them with a 12000 winch double pulling (potential 24000lb pull) a 2ton landy stuck up to its sills in mud. Realisticly how much weld can you get around a 20mm bar 60mm? If im talking crap please tell me, its just i realy dont fancy a piece of steel flying off my truck and taking someones head off.

I know even more reason to buy the right piece of kit, but its not always about going to the shop and throwing money about. If it was non of us would be here.

Im gona get a military spec tow jaw for my landy but the problem is these recovery points have gota sit either side of a winch so a tow jaw would look silly if you know what i mean.

Thats what these forums are about tho discussing silly ideas and learning from others.

i was gona attach them to a custom xmember and bumper. those swivel shackes cost a bomb i was gona get a set for my landy but wend with jate rings in the end.

Chuk

 

[Hitch]

Depends how they are welded on.

If they go on the flat with only 50mm welded on, you then can get 260mm of weld on them.

Thats a lot stronger than a landrover xmember im sure!
Theoretically, the shear strength of pulling one of the legs apart will be 14 tons.
Remember, its only as strong as what its welded to.

 

[malcolm]

Well worth filing the edges of the eBay hitch. We towed a VW bus out of deep mud once by wrapping a rope around the rear bumper and pulling with an oversized Land Rover looking thing. The rope kept on cutting through on the bumper, and only held when we had looped it around 8 times, and by then we had a bus load of Germans to list and push. The bumper didn't even bend never mind fall off.

You'd normally have people standing out of the way when a rope is in a lot of tension. But I can't see your design being the weak point.

 

[chuk]

Arh i get ya, have them laid flat pointing down rather that pointing out like this.

Hope you can see what i ment before by looking at this picy.

BTW Im not slagging off this build just so happend to explain what i ment much better than me




chuk

 

[Hitch]

Thats what i envisage anyway, not entirely sure on Luke's design.

 

[MrFluffy]

Stronger than you think and then some is best, as you never know when youll be stuck and daft enough to try anything once...
I just tore off one of the factory towing eyes off my rangie classic abusing them in an emergency ,although it seems theyre a crap design from a structural strength point of view, putting all the load through a m10 bolt in shear. I guess theyre supposed to be for towing the thing, not dragging fecking durty big vans out of drainage ditches.
Large rope, big lwb renault master van slid into ditch backwards when the bank gave way and beached with front wheels in air slightly (theyre fwd), no way the ranger was going to pull it out straight out even in low, so was snatching it to try and jerk it initially to get the wheels down enough to make traction.

I gave up after that and went and found the local farmer with his great big international tractor and when the front comes apart for inner wings on the rangie Ill be making some more substantial points to anchor to also. Of course thatll be after Ive finished straightening the floorpan in the rear of the van...
I bet if Id tied off to the aging rangie x-member, id have been roping the radiator back into place afterwards though. Wouldnt be the first time...

Malcom, the recovery firm that moved my vw bus tore the rear bumper off by towing it onto a beaverback by it and carrying on pulling when it snagged. It had tore the bumper mounts out the chassis and they said it had ******** the winch too. Theres not a mark on the bumper, I think they would survive a small nuclear incident...

 

[Luke]

My design (open to advice) was to pass the legs of the hoop through holes in a bit of 160x80x4 box section, then weld round the bar at all four points.

4(pi x 20) = 251mm of contact.

Jury's verdict?

PS - Pah, an electric winch will never pull the 12k Lb it's rated to, I'm going hydraulic

 

[Hitch]

Leave the end stuck through the back 5/6mm and weld around rather than a plug weld?

Cant see that going anywhere tbh, as long as they are nice welds.

 

[Luke]

yup, the legs are 100mm for that reason

Will be done with my new Portamig 211 when it gets here.

 

[chuk]

I definetly think what what ever shape hoop/loop/eye/bolt/tab anyone uses it has to pass thru the section xmember and be welded in @least 4 points like we both mentioned as were finding out on another thread things can quickly go from good to bad. Dont forget to post some picys luke!!!
I dont think i like a double pull from the guy whos pic i posted could get very nasty!!!

What truck you building luke??

chuk

 

[Luke]

its an 87 3.9 auto rangie, that i'm picking up next week, similar designs to that pictures you posted, not much body work!

Also making a new HD crossmember for a friends 90, and probably one for my 90 too.

There'll be lots of pictures (and requests for advice!!) once i get going.

 

[grunty]

Stronger than you think and then some is best, as you never know when youll be stuck and daft enough to try anything once...
I just tore off one of the factory towing eyes off my rangie classic abusing them in an emergency ,although it seems theyre a crap design from a structural strength point of view, putting all the load through a m10 bolt in shear.

I think you will find that they are lashing eyes rather than recovery or towing points, hence the breakage. In LR trials you are not allowed to use them at all!

I used the 4 bolt military recovery rings from a series LR on my Defender front bumper. Welded a lg piece of angle iron behind the bmper next to the chassis mounts and bolted to this and the bumper itself, well used and still there but now have a winch bumper.
Al