I would like to have your recommendations for the best circular saw blade for wood. I intend to construct a table saw (ca. 700x700mm). I'm planning to use a 300mm dia. blade and I would like to hear your opinion on the no. of teeth that is best for it. let me point that it is for my hobby (every once in a while use), not for professional use. let me also point that I'm aware of the safety aspects.
- Thread starter amron
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123hotchef
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number of teeth depends on what you are going to be cutting with it.
123hotchef
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Saxton blades are great, they do packs of 3 blades with different teeth counts so you can swap blade depending on what you are cutting.
gaz1
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if your constructing a table saw really do your digging on the design
a normal circular saw is ample enough with a good blade
tilting mechanism
for a solid build belt driven
dieselsamurai
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Personally i would not consider making one especially with a 300mm blade its bad enough using a proper one but they are so cheap second hand the amount of time constructing it just doesnt add up. I think I paid £50 for my Scheppach one a few years back and its been no trouble at all
Agroshield
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300mm diameter blade to cut 18mm plywood seems excessive. Most track saws (different tool, I know) manage with 165mm.
dieselsamurai
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if you really need one as said above a smaller circular saw mounted upside down in a frame of some sort would be best way
cheb
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Mainly plywood they said. If the rest of the cutting is 100mm square timber then they'll need the 300mm.
Ton-up
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Cut a piece of ply the size of your table and push it as far through your saw so it lines up with the back of the table. i.e a false table with a tight slot to your blade. Keep the slot end as tight to the teeth as you can. Bolt, screw or clamp this board in position. Use a fine, tipped saw blade.
The false table top will stop the splintering. Do the same thing on a handheld circular saw, jigsaw, etc and you will get a good cut.
The false table top will stop the splintering. Do the same thing on a handheld circular saw, jigsaw, etc and you will get a good cut.
Thats a bit of work, less effort to buy 2nd hand but don't be put off making your own. If Plywood is the main material I would have thought 40T +best bet and a type I have used myself for Ply.
Not a perfect clean cut by any means but I was using a circular saw and as your making your own bench consider a zero clearance insert,it will really improve the cuts.
gaz1
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as ive shown already you dont actually need that size of blade to cut plywood on a table
just a standared circular saw blade would be enough within a circular saw fastened to the table under neath
the only reason why i added the other vids was to show the bevel adjustment which comes in handy with plywood and for other things
As I've mentioned before, I need that large blade diameter because of the form of the shaft and it's base and due to the way it'll be installed under the table. I'll upload a picture tomorrow and it will be clear.
If I didn't have the workshop I'd be using a good quality compound mitre saw & a plunge/track saw.
It's much easier to move a track saw to a board than manoeuvre a board over a small saw especially if space is tight.
You'll be far more accurate with a track or even just running a circular saw down a straight edge than a big heavy board over a small light saw.
For cross cutting, a fine toothed blade in either the track saw or mitre saw will give excellent results if properly set up.
You don't need to spend up on Mafell or Festool to get good results. I certainly wouldn't buy a festool mite saw. I did buy the festool track saw but that was because the choice when they first came out was crazy expensive Mafell or just very expensive Festool.
Makita, Bosch, DeWalt corded stuff is all available at decent prices second hand and most of its robust enough to have survived a tradesman's use & be recovered as a good tool for the home workshop even if you're having to run a 110v tools off a transformer
Makita, Bosch, DeWalt corded stuff is all available at decent prices second hand and most of its robust enough to have survived a tradesman's use & be recovered as a good tool for the home workshop even if you're having to run a 110v tools off a transformer
gaz1
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i get you but this is done on the same
even if you was to use pillow blocks it would still do the same
Here is a pic of the shaft I intend to use. don't mind how it looks now, it's quite old and was laid without use for quite a long time, but it's in good shape and the bearings are OK. now as can (hardly) seen on the second pic, the distance from the center of the shaft to the surface of the table is ca. 100mm's. if I'll take a 250mm circular disc it will protrude only 25mm. it seems sufficient for use with18mm plywood, but to be on the safe side and in order to enable more options in the future. I think it will be wiser to use the 300mm diameter blade.
dieselsamurai
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that does look slightly overkill for the job but I guess if its what you have then it will have to do. What is the diameter of the shaft? most 300mm blades have a 30mm bore .
