Recommend me a cheap, widely available oil suitable for basic use on centre lathes...

[Tangledfeet]

The two Warco GH1330 lathes at school don't have a coolant system; they were disconnected long before we got them second hand - hoses removed and pump disabled. No schools in Fife, not that many teach metalwork anyway, have coolant due to risk assessments; bacterial risk, etc., never mind the additional cost and mess.

I found a can of unknown oil and its worked wonders for knurling (most work is aluminium bar) and threading using the tailstock die holder but its starting to run out.

Can anyone recommend a cheap and widely available oil that might offer a suitable replacement when this unknown can runs out? Something from Zoro, Screwfix, Toolstation, etc.

Thanks.

 

[willie.macleod]

We tend to use trefolex as a general cutting/tapping compound in the workshops. For aluminium turning buy a 5l wd40 container and brush that on, paraffin also suitable. CT90 readily available as well.

 

[Tangledfeet]

We tend to use trefolex as a general cutting/tapping compound in the workshops. For aluminium turning buy a 5l wd40 container and brush that on, paraffin also suitable. CT90 readily available as well.

Yup, we use Trefolex too for the same purpose - wasn't sure whether WD40 would be too light for turning; would just be spun off too readily? Will give it a go, assuming financial permission is forthcoming... I'm sure you guys are under the same anorexic budget constraints as us!

 

[Kram]

risk assessments; bacterial risk, etc.

Then you'll have oil smoke instead. Do the machines have extraction?

I use wd40, often with a bit of new engine oil (caught in chip tray from the way oil). Wd40 alone is not great on steels.

You'd probably be better with coolant and having the correct process to keep it clean.

What are the bigger Warco lathes like to use?

 

[Tangledfeet]

Then you'll have oil smoke instead. Do the machines have extraction?

I use wd40, often with a bit of new engine oil (caught in chip tray from the way oil). Wd40 alone is not great on steels.

You'd probably be better with coolant and having the correct process to keep it clean.

Reread my post; coolant not an option. No extraction either but by they are right beside the windows. I just do the best I can with what I have at my disposal.

What are the bigger Warco lathes like to use?

I don't have anything to compare them to; besides the coolant they've also had the half-nuts removed so can't be used for screw cutting - that is way beyond the requirements of the courses taught at secondary level anyway. One of the lathes has an immensely frustrating intermittent fault where it will refuse to spin up; technician and I reckon that the motor stops at a point where things are slightly worn; giving it a half turn by hand normally gets it going.

 

[MattF]

I just use the closest thing to hand. Kerosene, light oil, beeswax spray polish etc.

 

[fizzy]

WD40 for aluminium.
Brass and cast iron dry
Steel - coolant is best but with modern carbide tooling can be cut dry.
I only use soluble oil for parting off but CT90 works well.

 

[Carl Wilson]

ISO32 hydraulic oil. Cheap as you know what and will do the job you want it to do.

 

[Kram]

If cost is a problem coolant can be done with a plastic gallon pressure sprayer bottle as the pump with fresh soapy water. Lathe would need oiling after each session but thats a good lesson for students!
I havent looked into it, but as propelyne glycol is safe to breath in (vaping, smoke machines), a water mix might make a cheap coolant, boiled or just discarded weekly. Avoid ethelyne glycol as that is toxic.

No reason it wouldnt work with wd40 either provided you have a catch tray/tank.

 

[Tangledfeet]

Thanks all; WD40 sounds like the solution as it can be be brushed or sprayed - especially as the vast majority of the work is aluminium. Five litres is quite cheap on Zoro, especially with the usual discount!

As there isn't a bench grinder available I made the school pay for a couple of CNMG insert tools and as @fizzy affirms, they work on what little steel work is required.