- Thread starter M3T
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1" machine reamer would probably be an MT3 morse taper shank. Chucking reamers typically top out at ~16mm AFAIK. A cheap pillar drill probably won't have a morse taper spindle full stop and generalising, you'd need a large geared head drill press to stand much of a chance of getting an MT3 spindle
Tracey Tools are listing a straight shank machine reamer but you ain't gonna be able fit that into a drill press. There's hand reamers listed too but presumably the hole needs machining to reaming dimensions first? I would have thought subbing it out would be the cheapest solution if that's the case?
Tracey Tools are listing a straight shank machine reamer but you ain't gonna be able fit that into a drill press. There's hand reamers listed too but presumably the hole needs machining to reaming dimensions first? I would have thought subbing it out would be the cheapest solution if that's the case?
Flathead_Dave
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I don't understand 1" ish.
When you say ream out a bore,if you've got something that's got a hole that you want to finish to size,use one of these with a tap wrench.
http://www.tracytools.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=20&product_id=561
You'll need a micrometer to set it to size.
When you say ream out a bore,if you've got something that's got a hole that you want to finish to size,use one of these with a tap wrench.
http://www.tracytools.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=20&product_id=561
You'll need a micrometer to set it to size.
The bore is three pieces of aluminium joined by a steel tube of 1.060 inch diameter (approx - taken from the net) and approx 30 cm long.
Due to salt water use the bore needs to be cleaned and a new stainless tube (if available) or bar (machined) fitted.
The reamer size up from 1.060 is 1" 5/64 / 1.0781 / 27.3844
The three pieces of aluminium are bolted to a further piece of aluminium that can act as a jig. It is the saddle of an outboard the powerhead bolts to the centre piece and two outer pieces bolt to the transom piece and tilts via the tube.
Due to salt water use the bore needs to be cleaned and a new stainless tube (if available) or bar (machined) fitted.
The reamer size up from 1.060 is 1" 5/64 / 1.0781 / 27.3844
The three pieces of aluminium are bolted to a further piece of aluminium that can act as a jig. It is the saddle of an outboard the powerhead bolts to the centre piece and two outer pieces bolt to the transom piece and tilts via the tube.
brightspark
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Flathead_Dave
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No the chuck will prob be Jacobs taper,a reamer will be morse taper.The adjustable reamers have square ends,for use with a tap wrench.
I think you'll have probs with a length of 30 cm.
If it's just a sort of hinge thing,I'd drill a length of rod,fit a grub screw,and use a flap wheel in a hand drill.You can then machine the spindle to whatever size you end up with.
I think you'll have probs with a length of 30 cm.
If it's just a sort of hinge thing,I'd drill a length of rod,fit a grub screw,and use a flap wheel in a hand drill.You can then machine the spindle to whatever size you end up with.
No. Well, it depends on the size of the drill spindle but as all we know about the drill is that it's cheap...
There's also drill to table clearance (height), spindle travel and rpm to consider. Again, 'cheap' doesn't tell us much but you'd need enough travel to get through the job and enough clearance height for the work + the reamer itself. In my head 'cheap drill press' brings up pics of a little bench top drill or it's floor standing brother which are great for drilling for holes in things within their chuck capacity but not this
From what we know the best (cheapest/easiest) options are likely to be buy an adjustable hand reamer and a suitable 'tap' wrench (it'll be a big un for that size reamer) or pay someone else to do it
Various different types of machine taper are covered here... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Machine_taper for an idea of sizes
There's also drill to table clearance (height), spindle travel and rpm to consider. Again, 'cheap' doesn't tell us much but you'd need enough travel to get through the job and enough clearance height for the work + the reamer itself. In my head 'cheap drill press' brings up pics of a little bench top drill or it's floor standing brother which are great for drilling for holes in things within their chuck capacity but not this
From what we know the best (cheapest/easiest) options are likely to be buy an adjustable hand reamer and a suitable 'tap' wrench (it'll be a big un for that size reamer) or pay someone else to do it
Various different types of machine taper are covered here... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Machine_taper for an idea of sizes
Flathead_Dave
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It's very hard to explain things online,rather than face to face,without giving offence,so please don't take this the wrong way.It seems you've had a few answers,then decided to follow your original plan.I will try and sum up why this is a bad idea.
I don't have Machinery's Handbook to hand,but I'm sure a MT reamer of that size,won't be long enough to go through half the length of that tube.
You'd be hard pressed to find even a half decent floor standing pillar drill,with a 3MT spindle for under £250,let alone one that was nearby.
Once you have the drill and the reamer,you then need a means of holding the tube securely while you ream it.
You then ream to the depth of the spindle stroke,raise the table,ream till you run out of flutes on the reamer,turn the tube over,lower the table,then repeat.This is hardly likely to give a precision finished bore.
A reamer is designed to finish a hole to size,not clear corrosion and rust,it's very likely you'll wreck the reamer before you've finished the job.
If I understand correctly,this tube is just a glorified hinge.
Get a length of 1/2" bright steel bar,14" long.Get one end drilled to the size of a flap wheel shank,and drill and tap for a grub screw.Grind a small flat on the shank for the grub screw to bite into.
Buy 2 flap wheels,one about 60 grit,the other about 120 grit.
Clamp the tube in a vise by it's plates,and use a mains or cordless drill with the steel bar in the chuck.
You will get a near perfect finish for around £20,the same sort of finish as a honed engine cylinder.
Whoever turns the new bar can measure the finished tube size with a bore gauge,and machine to size.
