Re seating loose driveway bricks

[Kram]

I have been removing a stump on a driveway, roots went under the bricks and while I wasnt intending to lift any, they were already loose but it did help to lift them to tackle the stump.

Underneath there was a mix of soil and sand. To the side it appears a thin slop of concrete and rubble was holding them in place. There is now soil ontop of the previous which I shall carefully dig out.

I have said I will make it good, suggestions welcome, should I just place them back and tamp them down or do they need concrete? I have some postmix left over.

Thanks

 

[brightspark]

inner ones bedded on sharp sand and tapped down edging ones bedded on cement to hold them all in place and sinking at the edges

 

[gaz1]

take out the soil rebuild a wall as its split level

pull the paving bricks out near the edges tamp down near the wall and add more soil until really compacted then add more as needed then add the sand and tamp down the bricks

you should be able to dd more bricks right up against the wall

 

[Kram]

Sorry Gaz but Im not building a fecking wall! They want 12 privets.
The house with the newish driveway and pile of rashings is the one paying for it.

inner ones bedded on sharp sand and tapped down edging ones bedded on cement to hold them all in place and sinking at the edges

The outer ones were bedded on sand with just some cement at the side?
Problem is the soil is now very loose. I will ofcourse tamp it down

 

[gaz1]

12 privets that they will never maintain been there no thankyou

 

[Kram]

They will be paying me to maintain it. Will be a while before the tiny shrubs need a hedge trim.

Although their job to water them, only when needed.

 

[JOEPRO]

Dry bags if pre mixed mortar. Pour dry and level out with a trowel just proud then tap the pavers down with a large rubber mallet.

 

[MattF]

12 privets that they will never maintain been there no thankyou

If that's what they want & they're willing to pay for, that's what they'll likely get. You don't argue with a customer's wishes.

 

[Agrismith]

Post mix will be fine. Remix works particularly well as has a huge amount of fines. Hanson has to many stones. Center ones tamp or down dry lay blocks poor water over. Edge ones mix the post mix in a bucket or barrow. Only mix a little at a time as you only have 5mins to use it.
Vast amounts of council repairs will be done with post mix and they put up with far heavier traffic.

 

[Kram]

They are all edge ones, eight if them.

So am I applying postmix under them or just to the side?
.

 

[JOEPRO]

Post mix will be fine. Remix works particularly well as has a huge amount of fines. Hanson has to many stones. Center ones tamp or down dry lay blocks poor water over. Edge ones mix the post mix in a bucket or barrow. Only mix a little at a time as you only have 5mins to use it.
Vast amounts of council repairs will be done with post mix and they put up with far heavier traffic.

Use post crete by all means. But the gravel content is not good for laying pavers onto.

So I'd still strongly recommend using dry sand cement mix prior to pavers. Can be a thin later on top of the post crete.

I have tried to lay pavers onto post crete and it was too rough and ready for me. You need the sand or sand cement mix to get fine adjustment and a firm well supported paver.

 

[Misterg]

should I just place them back and tamp them down or do they need concrete?

The edging course should be bedded on concrete with a haunch behind it to stop the blocks moving. Sort this out and let the concrete set before replacing the inner blocks, tamping them down onto a sand bed. I'd be dubious about using post mix, as you really want time to set the blocks at the right level to match the existing, and in the right place to avoid having wide gaps to the existing blocks.

If you don't constrain the edges properly, you risk having the blocks in the body of the drive spread sideways and you'd be on the hook for getting the whole lot relaid.

 

[reb78]

The edging course should be bedded on concrete with a haunch behind it to stop the blocks moving. Sort this out and let the concrete set before replacing the inner blocks, tamping them down onto a sand bed. I'd be dubious about using post mix, as you really want time to set the blocks at the right level to match the existing, and in the right place to avoid having wide gaps to the existing blocks.

If you don't constrain the edges properly, you risk having the blocks in the body of the drive spread sideways and you'd be on the hook for getting the whole lot relaid.

I was about to type the same.

 

[8ob]

Whatever you do its going to be a temporary fix, with that much vegetation removed the ground will rehydrate (heave) and as the roots under the pavings rot the ground will sink. As above, edge it and put the old blocks back on sand, gives whoever has to sort it at a later date a fighting chance.

Bob