Ratchet straps - "D" Ring or "J" Hook

[anto]

Read a bit before on the different styles of ratchet straps and which I should be using on my trailer.
Currently have the standard "J" hook style strap but I am now led to believe that I should be using the less common "D" Ring style.

Its on an Ifor Williams 8x5 trailer with your standard lash down hooks on the side. To date I have been using the "J" hooks with the "ring" over the trailer hook. Nowhere to actually utilise the hook as such.

This seems to be wrong in that the "J" hooks can split. They only seem to be held together with a single blob of weld.

Loads are never anywhere near the rating of the straps, rope would be fine most of the time. Its just that the straps are handy.

I am going to get some of the "D" ring type strasp regardless but was just wondering was I over thinking?

Thanks

 

[James1979]

No you’re right. The hooks go into a ring on the deck or a ring under the deck or over a suitable piece of structure

the delta ones are for lashing hooks. The hook ends on ‘normal’ straps are barely tacked let alone welded and can let go. I’ve only seen it once and nothing bad happened but I’ve a feeling they are only rated for use in the intended way.

The D/delta ones are what you need.

 

[Munkul]

I use J hooks on my Ifor flatbed but I'd never use the J hooks through the centre of the ring, it's very bad practice. Either use the J hook sideways on the sheeting hook or run it back to front (I can't find a pic to show you how it works)
Or, modify the trailer for some proper hooking points.

I've been told that the Ifor Williams trailer hooks are supposedly sheeting hooks only, but I've used them to secure some VERY heavy loads and nothing has moved or broke, so... but my trailer has been modified with bar rails running along the outsides and joining all the sheeting hook points together. I often hook the bar rail next to the hook.

 

[Agroshield]

If you need to go hook-to-hook, could you put a master ring or single chain link or safety D-shackle between the two hooks? A short round webbing sling (might have to be custom sewn as shortest off the shelf is 0.5m) might do. Buy a length of Dyneema and make yourself some soft shackles.

It gives you the best of both worlds and might be cheaper than a full set of new straps.

If you look around, it might be possible to buy the D-rings themselves, but installing them into the existing straps might need some thought.

Maybe have a browse around someone like Jackson Handling's site for some inspiration.

 

[anto]

If you need to go hook-to-hook, could you put a master ring or single chain link or safety D-shackle between the two hooks? A short round webbing sling (might have to be custom sewn as shortest off the shelf is 0.5m) might do. Buy a length of Dyneema and make yourself some soft shackles.

It gives you the best of both worlds and might be cheaper than a full set of new straps.

If you look around, it might be possible to buy the D-rings themselves, but installing them into the existing straps might need some thought.

Maybe have a browse around someone like Jackson Handling's site for some inspiration.

Re; Master ring - I think it would be a complete faff trying to get a load secured while trying to keep both sides additional rings in place prior to tightening. I could foresee a few trips side to side of the trailer lol

On the dyneema, it would then become the weak link which i would imagine would be much lower than the strap rating. Again not a massive deal for the loads I have but best to be overengineered.

You can get D rings but how I would incorporate into existing straps without unstitching etc is anyones guess.

Think the simplest and cheapest option is proper D Ring straps, or someway of getting a decent fixing onto the trailer to accept the hooks.

 

[anto]

Ordered 3nr off the interweb, "theratchetshop" for a reasonable price. Saves any farting about with additional hooks/eyes etc.

 

[MoreWellie]

If you need to go hook-to-hook,

I have never liked doing this and was happy once I found "endless" ratchet straps as they cannot completely disconnect if they get a little bit loose

never had a problem like this with 5 ton straps but the 400Kg light use straps seem to be prone to it

 

[anto]

I have never liked doing this and was happy once I found "endless" ratchet straps as they cannot completely disconnect if they get a little bit loose

never had a problem like this with 5 ton straps but the 400Kg light use straps seem to be prone to it

I took that @Agroshield meant hook to hook as in hook of trailer to hook of strap rather than end of strap to end of strap.

 

[James1979]

Ordered 3nr off the interweb, "theratchetshop" for a reasonable price. Saves any farting about with additional hooks/eyes etc.

I’ve used him for years. He was mail order before online. He is a good guy

 

[8ob]

Read a bit before on the different styles of ratchet straps and which I should be using on my trailer.
Currently have the standard "J" hook style strap but I am now led to believe that I should be using the less common "D" Ring style.

Its on an Ifor Williams 8x5 trailer with your standard lash down hooks on the side. To date I have been using the "J" hooks with the "ring" over the trailer hook. Nowhere to actually utilise the hook as such.

This seems to be wrong in that the "J" hooks can split. They only seem to be held together with a single blob of weld.

Loads are never anywhere near the rating of the straps, rope would be fine most of the time. Its just that the straps are handy.

I am going to get some of the "D" ring type strasp regardless but was just wondering was I over thinking?

Thanks

Its illegal to use these hooks with a ratchet strap to secure a load because they are not load rated, dvsa can nick and fine you for using them. Better to use the hook type ratchet strap directly onto the chassis..

Section 4. https://assets.publishing.service.g...data/file/857507/safety-loads-on-vehicles.pdf

Bob

 

[Turbo]

Why not run a seam of weld along the j hooks where the ends run parallel - this is a welding forum after all! Have a bucket of water handy to dunk it into to stop the heat damaging the strap.

 

[anto]

Why not run a seam of weld along the j hooks where the ends run parallel - this is a welding forum after all! Have a bucket of water handy to dunk it into to stop the heat damaging the strap.

I'm only a diyer @Turbo and anything structural or safety critical I leave well alone. I reckon it would open up a whole can of worms if the worst happened.

 

[Justme]

Iffor williams rate the hooks to 500kg only.

A ratchet can load them to far more than that never mind the weight of the load.

 

[anto]

Right, so, I now will have 3nr D Ring straps which legally I shouldnt use on my Ifor and I have 3nr J hook straps with nowhere to tie down to.

Take one J Hook ratchet, one D ring Strap, join them in a big loop under the trailer and over the load and Roberts your mothers brother, a solution?

 

[Justme]

You should have designated positions on the chassis to hook to.
Or fitted tie points.

 

[8ob]

I think its was @Pete. that told me that DVSA pounce on all the truckers near where he works and fine them a silly amount of money for each strap attached to a chassis hook.

Bob

 

[Pete.]

I think its was @Pete. that told me that DVSA pounce on all the truckers near where he works and fine them a silly amount of money for each strap attached to a chassis hook.

Bob

Yep our transport guy says they get fined £100 a pop for putting a load-retaining ratchet strap on a sheeting hook if they get stopped at a VOSA checkpoint in the city. They used to be plotted up on the Victoria Embankment once or twice a week when I was working there. One guy was just waiting to turn into site to drop off a dumper he got pulled and kept waiting for 3 hrs plus a £100 fine for having a loose toggle on his stowage box.