Raglan Little John MK 2 Rejuvenation

[Parm]

As per an earlier thread I was given the above lathe. It's currently sitting in a trolley under the car port and will be housed in its new home in my little workshop over the weekend.

I've not powered it up yet as I would like to give it a basic clean and check first off. Initial inspection suggests that it's covered in crud that's sticking to the grease. This I plan to clean off, what should I use as a replacement ?

Second the chrome on all the handles has clearly gone and pitted the metal a little. I've had a go with some scotch brite which takes the rust off, what's the best way to protect these so they don't rust again. Chroming isn't an option just yet.

It's had a shoddy paint job in the past which doesn't look too clever. Once it's clean, set up and confirmed that it works then I will think about stripping the paint and re doing it. I've seen some wonderfull finishes on machines that people have restored what's a good type of paint and how's it best applied.

Any advice, hints tips and Pintrest from the more experienced than I will be greatly recieved

I will update this as I go along, but for now here's some pictures

 

[Austin]

scotchpad and deisel should clean it up then grease if theres any nipples and rest a bit of oil nice little machine there mate

 

[Parm]

I think everything that needs lubing on that should be oiled, not greased. Usually on old machines nipples are for oil too Spray grease (chain lube) is good for the exposed gears.

For the ex-chrome, a good polish up (very fine abrasive or a soap and buffing wheel) and 'protect' with furniture wax polish. Easy to get off if you decide to get it chromed, or easy to keep looking nice if you don't.

Rust deposits on flat surfaces can be effectively removed with a razor blade, followed by solvent (diesel, as said above, or petrol - good but 'dangerous'). Removing the bulk of it gently with a blade first means your solvent and cloth/scotchbrite doesn't get loaded too quickly.

Good advice, I was thinking about the buffing wheel approach. I have one that I fit into my wood lathe chuck to polish up stainless from time to time, it will be perfect for this. As I'm of the slightly lazy persuasion I'm gonna get my Electrolysis de rust set up working and dunk all small removal parts into that before polishing.

The flat surfaces I will address as you suggest

 

[Parm]

Apparently, you should try to get the chrome off before electrolysis

As for blading the ways - don't press hard, you're taking off oil, grease and crud not trying to scrape the iron.

I electrolysisised the whole bed on mine

The bed isn't too bad on this so gentle razor blade action will be fine. As for the handles, there's no chrome left

 

[optima21]

many years ago I was told by toolmakers that the best way to stop a machine rusting was to use it constantly as the oil that get used on it could end up all over it and stop the rusting.

 

[WorkshopChris]

White Spirit in a garden spray bottle works wonders for this sort of thing.

 

[mr migwire]

the original brochure that came with the little john, the one machine i have always regretted selling...

 

[roofman]

Your books are in the post Parm..1st class

 

[Pete.]

Looks like a nice little machine Parm. I have a flat carbide scraper for cleaning ways but a razor will do just as well and I wouldn't be at all shy about using some green scotchbrite and wd40/paraffin/white spirits to clean them up wither. Those flat unhardened ways tend to wear in front of the chuck anyway, you won't do it any significant harm.
The gears look in excellent condition. When you swap them make sure that every meshed pair has at least a little back-lash. Some open gear lube will keep them in good nick or at a pinch you could use motorcycle chain grease, just so long as you use something.

The reeves drive belt looks a bit scabby. It'll likely cause some vibration (but then they all do) but you can get replacement belts quite easily. In fact, I have a couple of odd ones spare so if you know the size and I have a compatible one you can have it for postage.

 

[Parm]

Your books are in the post Parm..1st class

Top Star

 

[Parm]

Gents thanks very much, genuinely thanks very much.

I have most of the things you mention but just not the Cahonas to go for it but now I will. I can easily sharpen up a carbide scraper on my slow speed water cooled knife sharpener to make a very very sharp scraper to have a go

 

[Parm]

Wouldn't a carbide scraper be a little overkill in inexperienced hands though?

I'd imagine it would have a handle, which would allow a fair bit of pressure, which could remove metal almost as easily as 'dirt'...

Try pressing hard with a razor blade, or a stanley knife blade (bare blade, not in a holder), less likely

I'm pretty good with things engineering. I think I can trusyself to take a carbide scraper to some metal without wrecking it

 

[Wallace]

the original brochure that came with the little john, the one machine i have always regretted selling...

That's nice, wish I had the original for mine!

Second the chrome on all the handles has clearly gone and pitted the metal a little. I've had a go with some scotch brite which takes the rust off, what's the best way to protect these so they don't rust again. Chroming isn't an option just yet.

I've not seen chrome handles on Raglan lathes only polished through use so you will be ok in the electrolysis tank.

 

[Dieselman 63]

If I didn't know better I'd say that's painted in Hammerite smooth blue.

On my bar bender I was cleaning the rust off with a wire brush wheel, then kerosene and p800 then p1200 wet and dry, wire brush it again then one of those model railway track rubbers to bring up a bit of a shine. Tedious, but I found that produced the best results.

The risk of just wire brushing is that you polish the rust, and that's no good. I keep all the bare metal parts wiped down with an oily rag, same as on the vice tommy bar which really wanted to rust back over. Both are looking fine to this day.

 

[Parm]

That's nice, wish I had the original for mine!



I've not seen chrome handles on Raglan lathes only polished through use so you will be ok in the electrolysis tank.

That's good to hear, I'm planning to clean then buff up on the polishing machine

 

[Parm]

Are you sure? Your avatar looks a bit heavy handed [/QUOTE

Don't judge a book by its cover

 

[Turbo]

Nice lathe, good luck with the restoration, I will follow with interest.

My myford needed similar attention when I bought it. I used 2 stroke mix & a green scotchpad to clean most of the dirt, grease & rust off. After cleaning the petrol evaporates from the 2 stroke mix leaving a thin film of oil as a temporary protection from rusting.
As a long term protection on the bed, slides & machined surfaces the correct stuff would be 'way oil' but if you can find it locally a light gear oil like omala 68 works ok.
For paint I would recommend Tractol paints. It comes in a good range of colours, goes on equally well by brush or spraying and dries quickly to a tough finish.
If you want a specific colour match I can recommend an alternative. I recently got a local motor factors to mix me up some selemix 7-610 single pack enamel to match my myford lathe and the were able to get a near exact match by adding in various tinters. It seems to be good paint, well priced at £15 per litre and the bonus is it can be applied direct to metal with no primer! Here is the data sheet on it.
http://www.hex.co.uk/tds/Selemix/7-610.pdf?Id=7369$7-610&IntDialCode=44

 

[Parm]

Your books are in the post Parm..1st class

Thanks Sir,

Recieved this morning

 

[Dieselman 63]

Found this looking for something else, you'll probably need a tin of it: http://www.stationaryengineparts.com/Raglan-Lathe-Blue.html

 

[Parm]

Thanks for that looks usefull