- Thread starter nickk
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Kram
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Unplug and leave atleast an hour, open the case, blow out any dust as likely has some by now, check no cables have came loose. Has it been moved much since it last worked?
Look at any accessable PCB's for signs of burnt components or dust build up that could have caused a short.
While your in there get some well focused photos of the boards and post here, somone may be able to identify the problem.
Look at any accessable PCB's for signs of burnt components or dust build up that could have caused a short.
While your in there get some well focused photos of the boards and post here, somone may be able to identify the problem.
Morrisman
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Did you connect the earth up? I’ve made that mistake more than once…
bletchmonster
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Have you tried changing the tips, occasionally the electrodes go dogo without looking fubared.
Also as mentioned, check for dust and dirt . If the hf start pcb is dirty the hf can track across the board in preference to starting the arc at the torch. But usually happens only if the dirt is damp.
Is the hf lead connected on front of machine?
Also as mentioned, check for dust and dirt . If the hf start pcb is dirty the hf can track across the board in preference to starting the arc at the torch. But usually happens only if the dirt is damp.
Is the hf lead connected on front of machine?
Barking Mat
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My esab plama has a fuss on the back of it, any fuses anywhere ?
TryingToWeld
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Assuming they repair to component level and don't just swap pcbs, look for fresh solder. 90% of faults are caused by the same components failing.
sako243
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Give them a call. I had my P50HF being a sod to use and gave them a call to see what the cost would be to look at it.
Technical chap phoned me back and guided me through some diagnosis and then said if its this try this (adjusting spark gap on the hf board) that did the trick. No charge at all just genuinely helpful and wanted to help, if that hadn't worked they'd have happily taken it in to look at (obviously charging).
Technical chap phoned me back and guided me through some diagnosis and then said if its this try this (adjusting spark gap on the hf board) that did the trick. No charge at all just genuinely helpful and wanted to help, if that hadn't worked they'd have happily taken it in to look at (obviously charging).
They STILL use spark gaps
threadstripperbern
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Top left of the last picture, looks like a resistor off the the regulator has popped? Maybe it’s just the angle.. Don’t shoot me, I know nothing!
Good luck, though,
Bernie
Good luck, though,
Bernie
Is it the slim black sausage shape,horizontal?
Kram
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That resistor, like everything else is coated in grinding dust, but its the camera angle that makes it look like that, I dont think its blown.
However if you have a multi meter, it will cost nothing to measure and check its resistance - which may not be exact with it connected in circuit but good enough for testing...
If you dont have one... get a digital multi meter. Cost about a fiver..
However if you have a multi meter, it will cost nothing to measure and check its resistance - which may not be exact with it connected in circuit but good enough for testing...
If you dont have one... get a digital multi meter. Cost about a fiver..
Kram
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I dont like the quality of this pcb!! Through hole components should be through holes in the pcb and not "green wired" to solder pads on the back of other components. On a product thats likely to get hot, the components weight and vibration can make solder joints fail, parts fall off etc..
Check the orange circles.
The top red cicle looks like it could be a bad solder joint and burnt wire through the hole.
The lower red cicle looks like the right end has snapped and came free from the board.
Id say the previous repairs and manufacture were not up to standard!
Check the orange circles.
The top red cicle looks like it could be a bad solder joint and burnt wire through the hole.
The lower red cicle looks like the right end has snapped and came free from the board.
Id say the previous repairs and manufacture were not up to standard!
That's quite typical of high voltage PCB design, as to ensure good insulation gaps while getting all the required components on the board, you sometimes have to do things that are less than ideal from an installation point.
Good high voltage PCB design is a bit of a black art.
I'd say that's the main plasma power source board, given it looks like 2 bridge rectifiers at the bottom centre.
Power comes in top right and runs down to what is probably a relay, then jumper wires on the opposite side across to the bridge rectifiers.
I'd guess the opposite side is mostly capacitors, with the various soldered on resistors being bleed resistors to drain the capacitors when switched off, so they likely won't have much effect on the actual operation of the machine.
