R Tech P30C newbie questions

[mike in somerset]

Hi, just used the r tech P30c for the first time and have a few questions.

I'm using it for cutting curves in 1 to 3mm mild steel. I know I need loads of practice! There isnt any attachment to help keep the torch just above the steel. The r tech video shows a little wire guard but the ceramic nozzle on mine looks different - should I get a wheel guide? Can anyone recommend a source of these?

Also, when cutting 2mm mild steel what amps should I use? Changing the control doesn't seem to make much difference. Will experiment more tomorrow with different thicknesses and settings.
cheers
mike

 

[mike in somerset]

Or maybe the cutting tip is designed to be dragged?

 

[pondy]

Have you got a picture of the torch? I looked at a video on r tech website and it looks Like a pt-31 torch. I use this torch on my cut 40 machine with extended tips and just drag them on work piece, they have a small cross cut into the top and its been fine.never used the wire stand off but read on here about people who dont like them.
I do all curves etc free hand, it takes some practice to make neat cuts, I still have a shaky hand but getting better. I also have a wheeled circle cutter which is good also

 

[Wendelspanswick]

Cutting freehand does require practice, for intricate shapes I find holding the torch in both hands, one hand holding the handle and trigger and the other hand holding the head of the torch, with the base of both fists resting on the sheet.
I found the wire stand offs a hindrance, they catch on the sheet and mine live in the back of the cupboard.
On thin sheet, <=3mm I drag and over that I lift slightly.
Using templates and guides helps enormously, remember to deduct the torch offset, and you lose definition on external corners. Thin MDF makes relatively long lived templates if you are careful.
On my torch I found that if I use the right thickness of MDF I can rest the edge of the ceramic on it which holds the torch about a mm of the sheet.
I find getting the air pressure correct gives me a cleaner cut whereas fine adjustment of the cutting current does not make a huge amount of difference.

 

[Gareth0123]

I also have the R-Tec P30C plasma cutter and I love it. I am using mine mainly as a drag tip cutter and I'm having no problems using at all. You will have to adjust the air pressure and the amps according to the material being cut, but that can be done easily on a waste section of the piece you are going to cut. I also purchased the River Weld (ebay shop) circle cutter it works really well and I use mine regularly each week, but don't forget to be cheeky with them and make an offer.................. I paid less than £20 for my circle cutter delivered. I have some doublers to make for a job later this month which will mean me making an extension rod to get a larger radius, but this will be no problem to make.

Here is a PDF document that I put together for my files. It is made up of the River Weld Spare Parts list for the type PT31 torch and consumables. The PT31 is the type of Torch that is fitted to my R-Tec P30C Plasma cutter.

 

[mike in somerset]

Have you got a picture of the torch? I looked at a video on r tech website and it looks Like a pt-31 torch. I use this torch on my cut 40 machine with extended tips and just drag them on work piece, they have a small cross cut into the top and its been fine.never used the wire stand off but read on here about people who dont like them.
I do all curves etc free hand, it takes some practice to make neat cuts, I still have a shaky hand but getting better. I also have a wheeled circle cutter which is good also

Sorry don't have a pic with me. The tip does have a cross. So I guess its as yours.

 

[mike in somerset]

Cutting freehand does require practice, for intricate shapes I find holding the torch in both hands, one hand holding the handle and trigger and the other hand holding the head of the torch, with the base of both fists resting on the sheet.
I found the wire stand offs a hindrance, they catch on the sheet and mine live in the back of the cupboard.
On thin sheet, <=3mm I drag and over that I lift slightly.
Using templates and guides helps enormously, remember to deduct the torch offset, and you lose definition on external corners. Thin MDF makes relatively long lived templates if you are careful.
On my torch I found that if I use the right thickness of MDF I can rest the edge of the ceramic on it which holds the torch about a mm of the sheet.
I find getting the air pressure correct gives me a cleaner cut whereas fine adjustment of the cutting current does not make a huge amount of difference.

Thx. My plasma cutter says 50psi as the setting. Do you set at more or less? Mike

 

[pondy]

I keep mine set to 60psi and only adjust amps

 

[mike in somerset]

I also have the R-Tec P30C plasma cutter and I love it. I am using mine mainly as a drag tip cutter and I'm having no problems using at all. You will have to adjust the air pressure and the amps according to the material cut, but that an be done easily on a waste section of the piece you are going to cut. I als purchase the River Weld (ebay shop) circle cutter it works really well and I use mine regularly each week, but don't forget to be cheeky with them and make an offer.................. I paid less than £20 for my circle cutter. I have some doublers to make for a job later this month which will mean me making an extension rod to get a larger radius, but this will be no problem to make.

Many thanks. Sounds like dragging is fine. Out of interest what air and amps do you use for say 1mm steel vs say 4mm steel? Cheers mike

 

[Jim Davey]

Use the lowest amps you can get away with for the speed you want to cut at.