Quickest method of using rubbing compound

[Edward Yemm]

Does everyone just use this stuff by hand? Anyone tried it with small compounding pads on a machine or anything else? Looking for something which will still work a lot more gently than sandpaper but be a lot quicker. Wearing my hands out at the moment. Thanks.

 

[Al Strachan]

3m fast cut plus and 3m green pad on a rotary.

you’ll need to say what your doing though. New paint?

 

[Edward Yemm]

3m fast cut plus and 3m green pad on a rotary.

you’ll need to say what your doing though. New paint?

I’m removing paint from a door jam prior to repainting a panel. I messed up. I didn’t use soft edge tape because I didn’t know it existed. I used masking tape and I used it too far inside the gap.
Horrible amounts of dry spray in places where the paint couldn’t flow into the gap. A horrible tape edge which needs knocking back down again.
I just tried using a hard compounding pad on a rotary polisher and I won’t try it again as it’s a very uneven area and I cut into the grey primer in one spot. I’ll buy the 3M fast cut and carry on by hand with that.
Probably faster paint removal than this Halfords rubbing compound. I’m going to have to carefully monitor angles and decide where is best to use my soft edge tape. I’ll need to make sure that the soft edge line isn’t visible from the outside.
I think I’ll have to find the sweet spot just around the corner into the gap. Maybe I’ll need to angle the gun slightly to make sure I get enough paint build up on the edge.
Im still learning. Maybe it’s best that I make my own door jam out of scrap panels and try it until I get it right. Don’t want to mess up the actual car this time. Thanks.

 

[Edward Yemm]

If I were to get the rotary on the go again I’m thinking to tape off the good paint. Wondering if the edge of a hard pad will just rip a hole in the tape?
If there’s a risk I’d rather carry on by hand. Using the fastest possible compound. Not wanting to use sandpaper. That cuts through before you know it as well and scratches the original surface to hell. Thanks.

 

[Al Strachan]

Not sure how good 3m would be by hand. It’s designed for machines.

for bits like That I use t-cut scratch remover. Pretty sure there will be better products out there, but it’s nice and fast for hiding/removing lines/overspray where it’s not so noticeable.

it’s pretty aggressive stuff and for hand use.

 

[123hotchef]

3m on a pad in the drill or machine to do head lights

 

[Al Strachan]

Correction. It’s a tube of car plan rubbing compound I have, but used the scratch remover before. All pretty much the same stuff.

 

[graffian]

3m on a pad in the drill or machine to do head lights

I have done headlights by hand with it.
It's quicker and easier than getting a polisher out.

 

[Edward Yemm]

Ok. Thanks all. I’ll try using a few different products by hand or with a small wool polishing drill attachment I have. Tape off the good paint. See what works the fastest.

 

[Edward Yemm]

I already have a bottle of Farecla G3. I think that’s the equivalent of the 3M as it also is stated as being fast cut. I’ll try it versus the Halfords rubbing compound. 3M also do a fast cut specific rubbing compound. Maybe more aggressive than Fast cut plus and G3? Its only showing up as being in the USA and it’s a lot of money for shipping on eBay so I’ll probably give that one a miss unless I find it somewhere here. Thanks.

 

[Al Strachan]

I personally wouldn’t bother trying to perfect large. areas with rubbing compound, nor would I try to use a machine with all the curves and edges.

you will without questioning rub through at some point or spend longer that it would take to mask off and paint.

good luck though!

 

[Edward Yemm]

I personally wouldn’t bother trying to perfect large. areas with rubbing compound, nor would I try to use a machine with all the curves and edges.

you will without questioning rub through at some point or spend longer that it would take to mask off and paint.

good luck though!

I’m only going to be doing this to remove paint from places it shouldn’t be. The faces of the panels where the paint should be are already sanded or will be soon. Thanks.

 

[steveo3002]

no one would use a machine on an edge like that ...if the compound is taking too long then sand out the defects first with fine paper , or scuff it up and repaint it

 

[Edward Yemm]

no one would use a machine on an edge like that ...if the compound is taking too long then sand out the defects first with fine paper , or scuff it up and repaint it

Ok. Finest I have currently is 2500. I’m thinking to buy some finer stuff as well. The grades you get with headlamp restoration kits. Less scratches to polish out after. Only good thing about the rubbing compound is a perfect scratch free surface. I’ll use rubbing compound or Farecla over the sanding scratches. I think I’d better trim the sand paper down to tiny pieces so only the smallest spot is getting finger sanded without breaking through somewhere that’s already been cleared. Thanks.

 

[Edward Yemm]

I’m using the 2500 in pieces the size of my finger tip with a bar of soap and warm water now. Read up about the soap somewhere. That unwanted paint is coming off at a better rate now. Bit of scrubbing with the rubbing compound after and the surface is scratch free perfect again. Thanks.

 

[steveo3002]

2500 should polish up with little effort

 

[Edward Yemm]

2500 should polish up with little effort

Yes. It’s very light isn’t it. No need to go lighter. Very forgiving as well. Less chance of breakthrough. Thanks.

 

[tom2207]

plenty of soap and water as a lube is the trick .