plumbing 2 compressors together

[finyuk2005]

Hi there
Im needing some help figuring out how to plumb 2 compressors together, but its slightly more complicated than the usual setup,

I have a 4hp 200l single phase compressor and want to connect in a 13hp petrol powered one for doing bigger jobs,
The complicated part is that i have a homebrew cooler setup that i want to run the petrol one through as well.

right now air comes out the electric compressors head (at over 100c usually), it then goes through about 20 meters of hose coiled inside an IBC rainwater collection tank, this cools it to more like 10-15c before it goes through the check valve and into the compressor tank,
If I fit a check valve on the outlet of both compressor heads, into a T piece, through the hose coil, do I then fit another T piece and from there into each compressors tanks check valves? or in the case of the petrol one, its more of a blow off valve type thing.

Any thoughts? Im just not sure if that setup would cause issues with the pressure switch on the electric compressor and the pressure relief for the compressor head, I think the petrol one would be ok, as it just runs the whole time and vents when it gets up to pressure.
I may try and do a drawing to explain it better!

cheers

 

[gaz1]

a coil inside of a water tank will cool it for so long then it will fill up with water and then needs draining

your better off using a different method to cool more so in long periods of air usage

as goes for the tee piece i would use 22mm or 3/4 but with 22mm you can use a reducer to 15mm in reverse on the tee this allows the side 22mm to then feed into the system

 

[hotponyshoes]

Check the ratings on both. If suitable,
Run the outlet of the petrol compressor into the tank of the electric one.
Set the cut-out of the electric above the petrol dump valve.
Done.

 

[finyuk2005]

a coil inside of a water tank will cool it for so long then it will fill up with water and then needs draining

your better off using a different method to cool more so in long periods of air usage

as goes for the tee piece i would use 22mm or 3/4 but with 22mm you can use a reducer to 15mm in reverse on the tee this allows the side 22mm to then feed into the system

I currently have a drop leg with a ball valve to dump condensate, but i was thinking today i could fit an auto drain instead,
The pressure in the coil is dumped every time the compressor cuts out, it takes a good 30 seconds or so!
So far the system has been working incredibly well, I have a few drops along the rest of the pipework in the shed, and have never had any water to drain out,

 

[finyuk2005]

Check the ratings on both. If suitable,
Run the outlet of the petrol compressor into the tank of the electric one.
Set the cut-out of the electric above the petrol dump valve.
Done.

or if the electric ones cut out was below the petrol one it would have less work to do when i had both going?
if i can extend the electric ones life a bit that would be good, i think shes getting a bit tired!

 

[hotponyshoes]

or if the electric ones cut out was below the petrol one it would have less work to do when i had both going?
if i can extend the electric ones life a bit that would be good, i think shes getting a bit tired!

Yes except when both are running you'll need the electric one to stop second so that the unloader valve kicks in.
Otherwise the electric one will struggle to start again.
I'm not sure the standard switch on an electric one will have a wide enough hysteria to cope otherwise unless both upper and lower set points are adjustable?

You can try it and see, just watch over the electric one the first run and switch it off if the motor is not firing up correctly

 

[m_c]

As long as you have a check valve after each compressor head before the outlets connect, they shouldn't affect each other.
The petrol compressor will likely still have a check valve, along with an unloader valve.

 

[gaz1]

sorry best to go coil inside a tube heat rises so any heat can be pumped away and if you want have it go through a rad on the front of the air compressor as it will cool the water inside the rad the top up comes from your water tub

drain tee at base of the coil before comes back up

cold water fed from the base heated water at the top

then fed through 3-4 tubes will really get the air cold

rough diagram

 

[finyuk2005]

Yes except when both are running you'll need the electric one to stop second so that the unloader valve kicks in.
Otherwise the electric one will struggle to start again.
I'm not sure the standard switch on an electric one will have a wide enough hysteria to cope otherwise unless both upper and lower set points are adjustable?

You can try it and see, just watch over the electric one the first run and switch it off if the motor is not firing up correctly

Ah yeah thats true, the unloader valve is part of the regulator etc...i have been trying to get my head round how that would be affected by the other compressor,

ive ordered check valves and t pieces so will just have an experiment when i get them!