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julianf
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I could probably even cast a resin former from one of the undamaged corners, but I don't know if that is going too far?
I intend to sell the part for good money when it's done, so am looking for an invisible repair, no matter how much effort that is.
I'm not convinced that resin would be a better answer. Soft pine applies pressure whilst conforming to the material.
Is this case such a saleable item as to be worthy of the time and effort? Especially considering its current patinated condition may may warrant a premium of its own?
Burdekin
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A bit of heat and then hammer and dolly. Ensure they are both polished clean so don't mark the surface and clean off the surface of the suitcase. A little filler will be better than over working and stretching the aluminium. It will be stretched already with the dents, therefore a little heat, a light plannish to remove the dent and then let it cool and shrink should remove most of the dent.
RWD3M
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A sand bag and a bossing mallet!
julianf
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This isnt my work, but the same sort of thing -
The cases are not made any more and have to be specific ones for the purists. Theyre all old, so they all have the damage, but people want new and shiny, hence the effort.
The one in the photo was probably equally as aged initially.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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Those dents will have stretched the metal.
Mount the case on a hard surface, wood is very good.
Shape some hard wood to suit the shape.
Burn the end to make it smooth, use that and a hammer to remove the dent as much as possible.
The metal will tell when it has enough.
Remove the paint and clean well.
Special alloy body filler is available from a car body shop supplier.
Use that and the etch primer.
Paint as normal.
Mount the case on a hard surface, wood is very good.
Shape some hard wood to suit the shape.
Burn the end to make it smooth, use that and a hammer to remove the dent as much as possible.
The metal will tell when it has enough.
Remove the paint and clean well.
Special alloy body filler is available from a car body shop supplier.
Use that and the etch primer.
Paint as normal.
julianf
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If you are painting then filler?
I'm not sure how tough filler is? I really have no experience of it.
I'm guessing it doesn't just fall out, but I'm just dubious of filling the corners of a suitcase.
grim_d
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It's pretty darn tough if used correctly. I'd presume the recipients of said suitcase won't be throwing it around either?
Body filler is fibreglass polyester resin with a powder mixed in, usually chalk, but some use Al. dust.
It is inert but it is compromised by moisture (a given, when patching rusty cars) and a differing coefficient of thermal expansion, if used too thick. Wood fillers (the same stuff) seldom work over any time due to these two factors.
So filler for this low stress application, rather than try too much alloy restitution. I would try to push the largest corner dent out a bit, so under 2 mm of filler is needed. Then you'll be using your epoxy on top.
It is inert but it is compromised by moisture (a given, when patching rusty cars) and a differing coefficient of thermal expansion, if used too thick. Wood fillers (the same stuff) seldom work over any time due to these two factors.
So filler for this low stress application, rather than try too much alloy restitution. I would try to push the largest corner dent out a bit, so under 2 mm of filler is needed. Then you'll be using your epoxy on top.
julianf
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The case has turned up here. There's a lot of small dents and scratches all over it, rather than just a couple of large ones, so it's going to be filler one way or the other.
The shell is anodised alloy.
When using filler is my best plan to use epoxy primer first, and then fillet on top of that?
I see a couple of fillers listed for alloy wheels but my feeling is that epoxy primer will stick to the alloy better than fillers, so should I stick the epoxy to the alloy and then the filler to the epoxy?
Do epoxy, rather than polyester, fillers exist?
The shell is anodised alloy.
When using filler is my best plan to use epoxy primer first, and then fillet on top of that?
I see a couple of fillers listed for alloy wheels but my feeling is that epoxy primer will stick to the alloy better than fillers, so should I stick the epoxy to the alloy and then the filler to the epoxy?
Do epoxy, rather than polyester, fillers exist?
Depends how good you key is and what filler your using.
Lots of Volvo's have alloy door skins,
Filled them fine.
