Painting new box section with hammerite

[richard s]

Hi all after some advice again, I am building a table out of new 50mm box section, it has a grey finish that can be removed to bright with a grinder and wire brush attachment, I washed it down with white spirit prior to welding, before painting can I wipe it down again or do I need to wire brush to a bright finish

 

[Onoff]

I'd abrade it with a da / orbital sander so it's dull and a bit rough. You want a surface to key to.

 

[richard s]

Would a scotch brite be sufficient thanks

 

[julianf]

Hammerite makes a point of saying that the surface should be rough. I can't remember their exact wording.

You could leave it outside for a few days, or wipe it over with whatever acid you have to hand?

 

[Onoff]

Honestly, just rough it up with a bit of 80 or less grit paper to put a few scratches in and dull it down.

 

[bourbon]

And don't use Hammerite, It's crap since they changed the formula

 

[julianf]

If you're brushing, you could brush paint some epoxy primer without special breathing kit.

And then, if you want the hammered finish, use whatever over the top of the epoxy.

 

[Wildefalcon]

Hammerite is great paint, for interior stone. Anything else, I'd look elsewhere, it's too brittle for steel, and cracks when the steel moves, which it does with changes in temperature. The cracks let in moisture and then the rust begins, hidden!

 

[Onoff]

I used black, Flag brand hammer finish paint on my gate. That was galvanised then painted first oddly with Hammerite Special Metals Paint. It's stood up alright tbh:

 

[richard s]

Hi guys thanks for the responses, the hammerite has to stay for now, if it looks rubbish I will look at redoing it after Christmas, promises were made about it being ready for Christmas and I don't have anywhere other than patio to work, not ideal at this time of year, I also need to make and finish the table top too. I see trouble approaching in the distance

 

[daedalusminos]

I think you're referring to the mill-scale, that actually forms a pretty good base for paint and adds an additional level of protection. I would leave it on as I did with this workshop bench brush painted in smoothrite

 

[carbon]

If you're brushing, you could brush paint some epoxy primer without special breathing kit.

Epoxy primer doesn’t contain isocyanates so doesn’t need an air fed mask to be used when spraying, but does need some form of respirator

 

[julianf]

Epoxy primer doesn’t contain isocyanates so doesn’t need an air fed mask to be used when spraying, but does need some form of respirator

Yep. There's talk of people developing allergies to it also. In fairness i think spraying anything requires some form of mask.

 

[nickk]

And don't use Hammerite, It's crap since they changed the formula

Elaborate?
I’ve always praised it for rusty pitted steel ,but think it’s wasteful on new steel,where I use Jotun and zinc rich primer.

 

[bourbon]

since dichloromethane was taken out of it, It isn't as good, same reason as Nitomors isn't as good as it was

 

[richard s]

I think you're referring to the mill-scale, that actually forms a pretty good base for paint and adds an additional level of protection. I would leave it on as I did with this workshop bench brush painted in smoothriteView attachment 318866does it turn to a fine black powder when sanded