Hi new member here I was sorting out a friend's house clearing it out for him to sell when I uncovered his old Oxford arc welder, it had been under a plastic box outside for 40 years, he told me he was going to scrap it so I decided to take it home and have a look, I plugged it in and trip trip trip. So I took the lid off full of oil and water so emptied it all out into a contai
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brightspark
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so now what
is it all coroded
Barking Mat
Cuddler of hedgehogs.
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Photos please mate, and welcome to the forum.
Been trying to edit the message I hit the send by mistake oops, ok it was full of water and black oil so I got the pressure washer out and went to town on it, sat it for a few days and plugged in and it's working I did try a small weld with it and it's great, but 5 pin holes in the sump so have to decide what I'm going to do to fix this issue any idea please. Thank-you.
oldbikedavey
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Sort the leaks out, and recommission the thing.
They are really good, not being made any more, and need to be conserved....
They are really good, not being made any more, and need to be conserved....
angellonewolf
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use the welder to fix it
brightspark
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what gear have you
wont go far enough down in amps. would realy be best to re plate the bottom and would need to just under half fill with transformer oil its pricy mind unless you know someone from leccy board who is on the high voltage stuff
Welcome!
I had to do the same with my equivalent welder, but I ended up taking pretty much the whole base off and MIG welded a new one on. I replaced the gaskets with new rubber/cork strips and put bonded rubber/steel washers under the (Whitworth?) screw heads to try to block as many points of possible water ingress as I could. It's great to use now. One of the gaskets under the electrical connection plates might be asbestos, so careful if you're poking around there.
Carbon arc braze the pinholes using the welder, or solder with a torch? Decant the oil off the water and put it back in. It's unlikely it's going to be used on such a duty cycle that a bit less oil will make a difference to the cooling if it's missing some.
I had to do the same with my equivalent welder, but I ended up taking pretty much the whole base off and MIG welded a new one on. I replaced the gaskets with new rubber/cork strips and put bonded rubber/steel washers under the (Whitworth?) screw heads to try to block as many points of possible water ingress as I could. It's great to use now. One of the gaskets under the electrical connection plates might be asbestos, so careful if you're poking around there.
Carbon arc braze the pinholes using the welder, or solder with a torch? Decant the oil off the water and put it back in. It's unlikely it's going to be used on such a duty cycle that a bit less oil will make a difference to the cooling if it's missing some.
brightspark
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the oil is the insulator so wouldnt be putting crappy stuff back in
gaz1
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ive got the 110b
just bought an oxford rt110 arc welder myself at least i can use it for much longer periods than the sip 90 arc welder i also noticed i was at its end range for what i was sometimes welding
ive also found some extra info so posting it here as well
can you guys advise on its range of thickness of metal it should be able to weld
any other advise you guys could offer as im looking at a pretest before buying it as its quoted as in working order
ive also found some extra info so posting it here as well
can you guys advise on its range of thickness of metal it should be able to weld
any other advise you guys could offer as im looking at a pretest before buying it as its quoted as in working order
If you filter the oil/water mix through a fine sieve first to get rid of the muck then let it settle the water will sink to the bottom.
You will probably get enough oil to refill it most of the way.
If the holes are not too bad you could fill them with JB weld or similar. Just clean the surface thoroughly to get rid of any oil traces.
You will probably get enough oil to refill it most of the way.
If the holes are not too bad you could fill them with JB weld or similar. Just clean the surface thoroughly to get rid of any oil traces.
frank horton
V twins are great but 4"s rule.........
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u prob could find a working one for under £100...is yours worth the effort.....strangely nobody wants em.....
I got lucky and did a deal for a 225 amp Oxford oil cooled with a battery charger built in....
Sell mine ....never...
I got lucky and did a deal for a 225 amp Oxford oil cooled with a battery charger built in....
Sell mine ....never...
Barking Mat
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I got given mine by someone who no longer used it.
I notice there are a few pin holes in my oil tank I have cleaned it out and welded them but there is still a very small patch of damp when I fill with water, im looking at a tank sealer has anyone used a sealer on there tanks and if so did it work. Thank-you.
If the bottom of the tank is rusty I clean it off and give it a coat of primer, epoxy probably best followed by machinery enamel.
Run another line of weld, or cut out the section and make a patch? It seems better to fix what must be a very thin section rather than rely on a paint or chemical coating. If it's done in solid metal it ought to be good for another few decades.
