Newby question

[carlos420uk]

As said, get a gas flow meter (peashooter) type regulator, or one of the one's that you can measure the flow from the torch end. I wasted my first two bottles of gas very quickly by using the flow gauge on the R-Tec regulator as it is so far out.

My flow is now set at the torch for 6-8lpm and that doesn't even register on the gauge at the regulator. I have not noticed any difference in the quality of the welds either since lowering the flow.

I have started grinding my Tungston's both ends, that way I get an extra chance before I have to go back to the grinder My welds have improved massively over the last month and I can now lay down some half decent welds on the flat feeding filler etc without too much trouble. I have also found that for me stainless is much nicer to practise with if you can get hold of some scraps, as opposed to plain steel.

Good luck, it's a bit of a steep learning curve that's for sure.

 

[langy]

That's exactly what I was doing yesterday on my first time with the same TIG. Ruined the tungsten several times and destroyed a shroud. After swapping it around started to weld pretty OK. Mind you I am really going through gas. If I drop it below 12lpm it seems to start making sparks. I gave up in the end (after using 30-40 bar of gas in an hour). Anyway I have now bought a stainless steel work bench to work on. Maybe then I can keep a steady hand and follow the work easier.

It will cost you a fortune in gas at those flow rates, get a Flowmeter and set it at 5-7lpm

 

[langy]

No one has mentioned cleanliness, even stainless needs to be clean !!!

 

[Bobbyspit]

Thanks for all the advice and help everyone, I went back around to my garage today and swopped the leads over, sharpened my tungstens and wow, I am a different welder, Formed a pool and managed to do more in 10 mins than I did in four hours last week.
I have also been into my local college and managed to get on a Tig course , its a few quid, but its their gas and machines and I think I will progress quicker than on my own.

Ill keep you all updated.

Once again, thanks

ROb

 

[justmental]

dontt it feel good when it all come's together glad you have found the problem.

 

[Bobbyspit]

Pee shooter ordered less than a tenner posted so should pay for itself in no time!

Thanks

Rob

 

[jonnyBMX]

one thing to note is that its best to sharpen the tips with a clean grinding wheel (preferably a green or diamond one)

and only use it for grinding the tungstens to stop it being contaminated

 

[Bobbyspit]

one thing to note is that its best to sharpen the tips with a clean grinding wheel (preferably a green or diamond one)

and only use it for grinding the tungstens to stop it being contaminated

I bought a new bench grinder soley for the sharpening of tungstens! its not a green wheel though?

 

[hotrodder]

Doesn't matter the plain ol grey ones work fine. The world won't end if the tungsten is sharpened on a wheel thats' been used on something else either... yes, it's not the best practice and it is possible to contaminate the tungsten but it ain't easy (tungsten is 'kin hard)- most of us will have sharpened tungstens on 'general use' bench grinders/belt sanders etc, the angle grinder that was conveniently close by on multiple occasions.

Regular bench grinder wheels can be dressed if you're worried about contamination, they need dressing occasionally if used solely for tungsten grinding anyway to 'em cutting nicely/prevent deep grooves from happening. This is one of the advantages of diamond wheels, they also cut faster and cooler

 

[Shox Dr]

After going to the expense of a Diamond wheel for the bench grinder I wouldn't do it again. Plain old green wheels are far cheaper, and far far easier to dress