Newbie help please

[M4rk3y]

Hi, just wondered if anyone could give me some pointers here...

Iv done a few test beads, on flat plate, on butts/seams. And i thought I was making progress. Hopefully there are some images below showing these tests.



So I started making something. An arm rest, I'm a tattoo artist and don't want to pay £300 for some cheap ass steel that's been welded together - if, I can do it my self.

This is the main upright of the arm rest. I'm trying to weld it to a flat base. I can't seem to get a bead going... I tried putting my power up (to max, cos my welder is small and not that powerful, iv tried slowing right down. But it doesn't seem to "melt" the steel. I believe it's just mild steel (it grinded like mild).


The blobs here are all filler rod, like I say it doesn't seem to heat up the main parts enough to join them.

I also get a lot of build up on the tungsten, iv tried hanging it out the shroud more (to get in the 90degree joint) and it doesn't seem to help.



I think my welder is just an arc welder designed for stick. But I bought it off a guy who put the tig torch to it this is the only adjustment I have, besides my gas regulator.


Any suggestions?

Cheers
Mark

 

[overload]

Oh boy where to start!

You say you bought the machine just to build an armrest? Ok, no probs, Whack the power up to maximum and keep it there. Gas flow around 7 on the regulator should be enough.

Grind that tungsten to a nice sharp point and and DON'T EVER LET IT GET CONTAMINATED! If you do, grind it again.

There is an how to on Tig welding on the top left corner of this website. Very useful.

Steel prep. Grind off the mill scale until it is shiney. Tig do not like mill scale.

Have fun!

 

[M4rk3y]

Thanks for the reply, I bought the welder for 40 quid... Because it was 40 quid and pretty much on y doorstep lol... I also mess about with motorbikes and thought It might come in handy.

What's the best way to avoid tungsten contamination? Just keeping a distance? I have to scratch to start, an the easiest way I have found to arc up, is to rest the filler rid on the metal, then tap the filler rod with the tungsten. That way the rod quickly melts and I don't stick to the metal. When I scratch the metal it sometimes sticks...

 

[Richard.]

The beads on plate ain't bad for a first go.
Read the tig tutorials and techniques as I believe looking at the black soot arc length and torch angle are a bit uncontrolled here.
80 amps doesn't get you far.
2.5mm tops and your effected by duty cycle % at that.
Fillet joints require more heat and a narrow point on the tungsten to aid with focus getting in the corner. The blobs are caused because your feeding filler into the arc rather than the pool (common beginner thing to do) to avoid this you must have a focused arc, short arc length and feed the filler at roughly 90 degrees to the torch angle into the leading edge of the pool. If that box is thicker than 2mm I'd suggest some thinner material. Read the tutorials and there is a rough setting chart in there also to get you in the ball park for figures.

 

[overload]

Scratch start is something I don't miss! One way is to touch the surface with the tungsten like you are stroking a cat.

Drag and lift the tungsten and aim it back to where you want to start as it fires up!

 

[Richard.]

Clean the metal. Give yourself a chance from the start.

 

[dai]

What gas are you using?

 

[M4rk3y]

What gas are you using?

Just argon

 

[M4rk3y]

The beads on plate ain't bad for a first go.
Read the tig tutorials and techniques as I believe looking at the black soot arc length and torch angle are a bit uncontrolled here.
80 amps doesn't get you far.
2.5mm tops and your effected by duty cycle % at that.
Fillet joints require more heat and a narrow point on the tungsten to aid with focus getting in the corner. The blobs are caused because your feeding filler into the arc rather than the pool (common beginner thing to do) to avoid this you must have a focused arc, short arc length and feed the filler at roughly 90 degrees to the torch angle into the leading edge of the pool. If that box is thicker than 2mm I'd suggest some thinner material. Read the tutorials and there is a rough setting chart in there also to get you in the ball park for figures.

Thanks, I thought I might be pushing it trying to do 4 mm box to 3mm plate...
I guess it's not guna be a pretty arm rest. Just a long as it holds.
Thanks for the advice

 

[Richard.]

Thanks, I thought I might be pushing it trying to do 4 mm box to 3mm plate...
I guess it's not guna be a pretty arm rest. Just a long as it holds.
Thanks for the advice

PM me a drawing I'll make you one out of aluminium if you want a price

 

[dai]

Just argon

Sorry meant what size bottle

 

[M4rk3y]

Sorry meant what size bottle

It stands about a meter tall and maybe like 200 mm diameter... Not sure what litre it is... I bought a little bottle (the type for mig) but couldn't connect it to my hoses... So I got a proper on from the man at rufforth (auto jumble / bike parts heaven).

 

[M4rk3y]

PM me a drawing I'll make you one out of aluminium if you want a price

I might take you up on this, after iv made a pig of an arm rest

 

[Richard.]

This is a tattoo studio right?
Your projects should involve welding trolleys , benches, toolboxes etc.
you don't want a knocked up scabby metal pole in a clean tattoo environment.
Customers will run out the door as soon as you say "put your arm on that" .
Like I say I'm happy to make one for you out of Alu and I'll do you a price after a drawing is sent.