need advice on waterproofing a shed modification

[ned]

Hi all. I rent a house and it has a really nice shed. I want to add a little outhouse to the side of it for a compressor.

What I'm not sure about, is how to bond the below angles. There are sure to be gaps where they dont fit right, and I'm wondering how I can tackle these. I have no experience with this kind of thing.

This is a brutal photoshop but it does illustrate my problem, joining two different sheets together when one is at an angle of about 45 degrees.

In my minds eye I think something flexible like lead would do a good job, but that doesnt sound right either.

Has anyone suggestions please?


Thanks for reading

ned .

 

[Cobbler]

Evostik Flashband possibly, looks like lead, but self adhesive on the back. Screwfix do their own much cheaper, there's several on the market.

 

[ned]

perfect, yes I know the stuff you talking about, I've seen it before. Flashing tape. Great stuff man, thanks )

 

[arther dailey]

Well if you can Brian it needs to go behind the vertical sheet and then on top of the horozontal..in an ideal world!

 

[roofman]

Well if you can Brian it needs to go behind the vertical sheet and then on top of the horozontal..in an ideal world!

This would be my method with an inch gap..Also use code 4 lead with a head lap of at least 8 inches to stop "water creep" dont use flashband as once fixed it will be a complete mare to repair iff the flashband gets holed

 

[arther dailey]

I agree 100%, but when you are renting....there again if it leaks sods law dictates it will be onto some electric box/connections, you pays your monies and takes your choice.

 

[the snooper]

needs to be like this, and if enough fall on it so water cant run back, any sealant would be just to stop wind blowing rain in

 

[the snooper]

This would be my method with an inch gap..Also use code 4 lead with a head lap of at least 8 inches to stop "water creep" dont use flashband as once fixed it will be a complete mare to repair iff the flashband gets holed

I wouldn't use flashband or any bitumen like substance, it becomes very brittle on steel roofs in cold weather and cracks

 

[roofman]

I wouldn't use flashband or any bitumen like substance, it becomes very brittle on steel roofs in cold weather and cracks

Ok you can start here next monday...£15 per hour and £20 at weekends

 

[Shedendman]

Flashband is a PITA on anything with a profile,it'll crease all over the place and you may not get a good seal
Fiber glass matting is the way to go,then paint over it

 

[the snooper]

Ok you can start here next monday...£15 per hour and £20 at weekends

will my skateboard get me there on time

 

[ned]

Snooper thanks for the drawing, good stuff and makes sense. So lead is the way forward is it, or isopon fiberglass? together with the overlap described in Snoopers drawing.

I simplified my description in the opening post, what I'm actually trying to do is build a compressor shelter out the back of the shed, and also gain some floor space by extending a small bit out the back so I can reverse the back of the chassis into the cubby shown below.

The landlord has seen what I've done to the shed so far and has no issues with me building into / onto it.
The problem is, with the truck in the shed, there's no room to do anything else. Some floorspace to actually work in there is desirable.

 

[tinman123]

what i use in that circumstance is a strip of flashing, basically flat tin folded to the angle ( in the shape of angle iron ) with about 125mm sides.
slide it in behind the vertical sheet and screw it down on top of the new roof sheet.
you will be left with holes in the profile where i use a foam filler thats purposely for that job or the cheaper version is a can of foam filler and a dab of easy goes.

 

[Kent]

One fit a big p shape conservatory onto a steel clad unit. It never leaked in the three years I was there
Wood machined to fill the gap screwed up and flash banded

 

[dannyp]

strip of flashing and foam, units built like a mini barn, thats how its done on barns.

 

[Ton-up]

You need an wall abutment flashing that is bent to about 115 degrees open. Basically a L shape, 150 x 150 mm minimum, normally 3m long. One side goes up under your existing wall cladding and the other side sticks out over the new roof. You would need to ask for the plastic coat to be on the inside of the bend. As Danny says, foam filler if needed to fill profile.

 

[the snooper]

move the door forward by the same amount, no cutting of the building that way, just an extension

 

[gaz1]

lead wont work too well best off using tin and shaping it to match both roofs



yes one behind and overlap the front one but you need the angle sorting it use the method of stretching metal to create your new lines to match the box profile roofing shape on the up piece and also onto the new roof

then silicone it and pop rivet the panels together

it will look really good as only the bend in the metal will have no bends in its shape only when coming away from the down wall will you start to shape the metal too match the roof of your new build

 

[ned]

nice one lads definitely a solution there. Exending the door is deff interesting but its a roller door with a big mechanism, so a big job.

Ill work with the L shaped metal and foam filler. Cheers )

 

[gaz1]

sounds silly here but id be looking at doing it with the whole back of the shed at the centre silver cross member piece

build your steel structure all the way across the back of it fasten your sheets to it and you also gain more space all across the back of the shed

its what id consider doing even better if landlord lets you do so much better than just a small piece stuck out the back