My project, Help needed

[tammynjames07]

Hi everyone
Just thought I would share my woodburner, my first real project ( I know another gas bottle )
but everyone has different ways and ideas so I thought why not put some pictures up. It's still work in progress as I plan on adding a lower air vent, I also need some catches for both the doors, and finally a way of controlling the air vents.
Now where I need help is, I'm trying to decide on a backboiler design. It needs to be able to heat about 5 radiators. It will be using a central heating pump and thermostat and on an open system with tank in loft. All the plumbing is in place and I need to have it done before the cold spells.
I have planned for the boiler to go above the top door.
the options I have are
Copper coil (15mm or 22mm)
home made boiler using unequal box
Other?

any comments or ideas welcome

 

[octo0072000]

just remember if you are putting it in a house the chimney has to be lined and approved by Fensa you might have problems with house insurance
it's a nightmare when i looked into it to do the chimney was £1500 plus and only approved if fitted by registered Fensa fitter the only way to inspect the chimney is by knocking bricks out so they only give certificates to ones they fit you see the point and remember the carbon monoxide detector
just be careful

have a look at the link lot of info for you

http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/stove_help_and_advice.html

good forum for diy

http://www.diybanter.com/uk-diy/270827-hetas-just-another-certification-scam.html

have fun all the best hope this is useful for you

 

[pedrobedro]

Fensa are double glazing installation, what do they know about chimneys? You should get anything like this approved by building control who will tell you what they want you to do to make sure it is up to standard.

 

[garethp]

just remember if you are putting it in a house the chimney has to be lined and approved by Fensa you might have problems with house insurance

I think you mean HETAS approval?

I'm no expert on stoves and back boilers but I think they are usually made from mild steel or stainless flat plate and in a square box stove they are at the back of the firebox. I'm not sure how long a copper coil would last in the corrosive flue gasses.

I seem to remember seeing a stove design on this forum somewhere that used a boiler on the lines of a steam engine boiler with firetubes, can anyone else remember it?

Good luck with the project, I'm thinking of a similar idea for workshop heating

 

[octo0072000]

I think you mean HETAS approval?

I'm no expert on stoves and back boilers but I think they are usually made from mild steel or stainless flat plate and in a square box stove they are at the back of the firebox. I'm not sure how long a copper coil would last in the corrosive flue gasses.

I seem to remember seeing a stove design on this forum somewhere that used a boiler on the lines of a steam engine boiler with firetubes, can anyone else remember it?

Good luck with the project, I'm thinking of a similar idea for workshop heating

well i Googled fensa and brings up building and chimney as well but i agree with the building regs etc all this has been brought in due to chimney fires it seems you may find your insurance co will require a type approved stove
not a home made one it's a sad world we live in i would love a wood burner in my dining room but we are in a smokeless area a stove that's type approved to council spec and fensa hetas chimney double walled stainless comes to £5000 yes can get cheaper stove but none are approved for smokeless use it's a p i t a

this is a good link shows picture on how it works to re burns the smoke etc

http://www.windysmithy.co.uk/html/woodburners.htm

 

[tammynjames07]

Thanks for the links, there is some helpful information in there. I am doing this as a project to proove I can do it to myself. The flue is already in situe as there was a log burner in there previously. The property I am testing this in is located in a sucluded area and as long as it provides heat I will be happy.
So are we to assume the copper coil would not last because of the corrosive fumes?

 

[the artfull-codger]

Thanks for the links, there is some helpful information in there. I am doing this as a project to proove I can do it to myself. The flue is already in situe as there was a log burner in there previously. The property I am testing this in is located in a sucluded area and as long as it provides heat I will be happy.
So are we to assume the copper coil would not last because of the corrosive fumes?

I'm afraid you'll be on a hiding to nothing hoping that you can run 5 radiators from a small fire like that, I have a 7 kw multifuel stove in the front room & I got a backboiler for it when I bought it & the specs say it produces 4.8kw to the room & 2.2kw to the back boiler depending on what type of fuel u r burning & I have it coupled up to a rayburn heatmaster [the largest sf range cooker they make] & I've tried running the front room stove alone & it heats the bathroom heat shunt radiator & the hot water moderately but that's all, when the rayburn's on I have a tank @70 degrees top & bottom of the copper cylinder hope this helps. slan go fol

 

[octo0072000]

back boiler

here we are you tube vid for back boiler for wood stove

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2PBxcVxNgXY

 

[tammynjames07]

one more question I wanted to ask for some advice was the catch for both doors. and the valve or flap for altering the inlet. any idea's?
thanks in advance

 

[tammynjames07]

Hi everyone just a little update,
I have installed the air vents top and bottom of the stove.
I have also made a catch for the bottom door.
I would like some suggestions on a catch for the top door if possible, I am having trouble coming up with an idea as the door sits close to the bottle. This is the one thing holding me up from finishing my project.
idea's much appreciated
Thanks
James

 

[SC_BK]

For the catch, what about a bit of flat bar, bit of angle, and a bolt?

 

[tammynjames07]

I really wanted something that would pull the door tight against the bottle (as the door overlaps the bottle) so it would be as air tight as possible. Here are some pictures of the lower door catch. You can also see the air vents I have added.
James

 

[SC_BK]

It's a stove door, not a hatch on a submarine, it doesn't need pulled tight, just held in place. Look at the doors on commercially available stoves

 

[zardoz]

It's a stove door, not a hatch on a submarine, it doesn't need pulled tight, just held in place. Look at the doors on commercially available stoves

Ah hey he is just a belt and braces type of guy